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if you want to race find one with a full keel. Shoal will not be fast.
Jim
we always surround the deck and cockpit with towels when servicing winches - it helps to prevent parts from bouncing if dropped
and plug the scuppers.
In light winds we heel the boat to windward by having skipper and crew on weather side - weight as far forward as you can, but not forward of the mast
in heavy wind - still heel to windward, but weight back in cockpit.
and usually someone sitting on the boom in all weather
they are really sensitive to weight placement - watch your knot meter as you move weitght around to get the fastest position.
if your GPS says you're going 6 knotes then you are going hull speed - why worry?
you might want to adjust that knot meter.
jim
Still Knot Working recently spent about $20,000 in insurance money installing a liqour cabinet in the liner on the starboard side.
He'll definitly list to staarboard now.
it works for me - no complaints
Distant Thunder
nice paint job on that deck.
what is it?
JIm
Distant Thunder needs one crew for the EYC Levels regatta (C&C 27 MKV North American Championship) Aug 28 & 29
Call me!
416-417-0418
Jim
Hi
I had the same problem. It was caused by the screws holding the sliding attachments coming loose I fixed it by
1. remove door and remove all hardware. There is about 1/4" spare clearance to get the door out into the cabin (Ithink you have to clear the v birth platform out of the way first.
2. Replace screws with bolts and nuts
3. If necessary sand down plastic sliders a bit so they slide freely
4. reassemble
5. Apply teflon spray twice per year
jim
Distant Thunder
buy a kevlar 140% #2. Use it in 14 to 18 knots with a full main, and in 18 to 22 with a reef.
put on backstay tension until you are scared the mast will break
flatten the main to the max, and play the traveller in the puffs
You'll be the fastest boat on the lake
DT
hull 69
that's what we do on Distant Thunder
jim
13 x 10 RH 2 blade
just call flex-o-fold - they know it
works great, you'll be happy
DT
Hull 69
and if you are reaching with a genoa only - when the wind is abeam, of aft of abeam, but not far enough aft to fly wing-on-wing - then use a whisker pole set to leward.
no kidding - it works.
how are the inlet / outlet fittings attached to the holding tank - are they threaded into the polyethylene?
I just replaced the inlet/outlet hoses, and the fittings twisted in their seats. Have I lost the seal?
Distant Thunder
Hi
laminates - like all sails - deteriorate when flogged, tacked, etc. So sail without jib up if you are hanging around the satrt area, try not to stuff down the hatch too often, and don't walk on them. The #1 is too big to roll, so just flake it like any sail, try to avoid flaking on the same crease every time.
on DT we do the same - in flat water, baby stay is clipped to the mast.
and while you are at EYC we'll just adjust SKW to make sure the mast is tilted to one side by a few derees
Smoke is the fastest MKV known to man. I would reccomend:
- leave the spreaders alone
- set up the rig tension in the spring according to the tuning guide
- come down to EYC and look at SKW or DT and check our set up and mast bend
- go back and adjust Smoke if required.
I can sell you a main
jim wente
jcwente AT rogers.com
it's nice up there - great viee of the hull shape!
just make sure to use two halyards - one for hoisting and one as a safety.
JIm
Hi
First, we run rachet blocks on the spin sheets. Second, if it's light then the winch is not needed. Third, if it's really honking we transfer the spin sheet to a cabin top winch prior to reaching the mark, then trim the jenny on the primary. Going dead down wind into the mark the load on the jenny is light, since it is blanketed by the main. Last - we almost always do winward takedowns - keeps the spinnaker away from the genny and the genny trimmer, and leaves it on the port side ready for the next hoist.
Jim
Distant Thunder
Jim
Distant Thunder
Steve Reid of Still Knot Working has a set of templates he will rent out.
Steve is temporarily out-of-comission - but will be checking in duruing january.
Jim
Hi
there is no question - the MKVs hull deflects upwards when in the cradle. The middle section supported by the keel rises. If you unscrew the floorboards you can see that the aft end of the floorboards spring up to level - about 1/2" above the stringers.
I would not advise trying to tighten the pads - and it won't lift the boat that much anyway. You can do one of two things
1) worry
2) don't worry - there are 300 of these sailing around, and none, as far as I know, has broken in two.
Distant Thunder
Hi
another MKV at Owners, PCYC in July or EYC in August sure would be nice.
Let us know if you want any tuning / go fast tips.
Jim
Distant Thunder
If the holes are not in the right place for the new clutches, fill with epoxey and redrill.
When drilling new holes 1) drill 2) remove the balsa core for 1" surronding the hole. Its easy to do on a MKV since you access from underneath. Drill a hole the size of the bolt, then get the balsa out over a larger diameter. with a dremmel and a vacumn cleaner. 3) fill with epoxy 4) redrill the bolt holes.
Pay attention to the directions on the clutches - they advise a silicone sealant, not polyurethane - so don't use 4200.
I did two clutches that way this year - it's quite easy to do, and you will not have any worries about rotting deck core.
JIM
[A minor point of difference - don't drill all the way through at first. Drill down until your bit just touches the lower surface of the laminate, not through. Then clear out balsa and fill with epoxy. At that point, drill all the way through. A lot less fuss and mess. See Black Arts and the entry on deck tracks for the full story. - Admin]