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There are rectangular and round ones available, but I opted for an oval shape, which happened to be on sale at my local chandler. It has a sprung hinge, which I think is a better arrangement than the ones on which the lid is attached with a light ball-chain. It's installed, as I noted previously, on the starboard side of the foredeck, about three inches in from the toerail with the hinged side toward the toerail. It's all a matter of personal choice. Cheers.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
Hi Doug. This might horrify purists, but if you buy a hawsepipe with a sufficiently long lower collar, i.e. one that protrudes down below the underside of the deck into the locker space, you shouldn't have to worry about whether the deck is cored. Having masked off the area where I wanted to install the fitting, I used the lower collar as a template for the main hole cutout and fittings holes. I cut and drilled the deck and after checking to make sure the hawspipe fit appropriately, slathered the lower collar and the deck flange with 3M4200 (not 5200), coated the machine screw heads with more 4200 and fastened the whole thing in place -- but not all the way. I did the final tightening 24 hours later after the caulk had had time to set up.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
I went through the same angst with my early Mark III and, after much research and consultation with other owners, decided that the hawsepipe approach was the cleanest -- and easiest -- solution. It's offset to starboard (port would be OK too) so that I still use the once central mooring cleat. I considered putting in on centre and installing port and starboard cleats but figured the single one worked just fine. As for the "locker", I salvaged some 1/2-inch smoked acrylic that I had left over from a hatch project and cut a triangular shape which is bolted inside the bulkhead at the stem. I deliberately left about three inches open at the top in case I had to free up any snarls, which haven't happened. It works very nicely and the total cost, excluding the acrylic, was under $60, including the hawsepipe and SS fasteners. I'm sure you can scrounge acrylic from a local plastics supplier; they often have scrap bins but even if you had to buy it and have them cut it to shape (from a paper pattern you provide), you should be able to keep the entire cost under $100.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
I'd be interested in hearing how long it takes -- and the cost -- of having SS grabrails made. Thanks in advance.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
Seriously interested in transom-mounted ladder, if you have one; lifeline stanchions and forward hatch. I'm at kenpoleatrogerscom (needs "at" symbol and period before com).
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
Got your message and replied to it by direct e-mail today (Sept. 15). Was away on a week's charter in the North Channel. Blustery and mostly cool but great sailing. We had our Hunter 386 surfing on the swells (8.2 knots!) Friday morning on the return leg to Gore Bay. Cheers.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
Hi Ed. If it's a four-hole mount (approximately 2-3/16 inches centre to centre on the holes, consider it sold. Please advise price, including USPS shipping to K1H 5H3 Canada. I'd also need a postal address for payment. Suggest we drop offsite and deal directly; I'm at (kenpole at rogers.com) . Thanks.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
Hi Don. I don't have one but suggest you contact <A href="http://www.force10.com">http://www.force10.com</A>; they'll likely be able to send you a PDF.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
I'll have a look at a friend's Mark V tomorrow and get back to you, but probably not until late in the day. Meanwhile, someone else might have an answer. I trust that's copacetic, as they say. Ciao.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
The most stable option is a stainless steel ladder mounted on your transom so that it can pivot up to tie onto your stern rail. They cost $250-450 but I may have a lead on a used one.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
Has anyone installed a Vetus muffler in a A4-powered 27? If so, I'd appreciate some guidance as to model number. I've had different advice, i.e. get one that's rate for horsepower (A4s rate 15-30, depending on whom you consult) or simply go with the one suitable for hose diameters. Thanks in advance.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
Looking for one (or two if they're available only as a package) Barient 10 four-hole mount as originally fitted to 27 masts. If you have led your halyards aft and no longer have need for your mast-mounted Barient 10s, I'd appreciate an opportunity to acquire it (them). Thanks.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
Serendipitous that you should ask. That's on next week's to-do list. I'll let you know how it works out. By the way, thanks for the suggestion that I use a toerail-mounted snatchblock. That too shall be tried next week. Meantime, there's a weekend of sailing ahead. Ciao.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
No. I find that the angles and effort to use either the cabintop halyard winches or my self-tailing primaries on the coaming are not right when I want to use a bosun's chair. Thought I'd reinstall an appropriate winch on the mast and use it for primary lift with my spare halyard as backup to one of the others -- if that makes sense. Thanks for the response.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
Can anyone tell me the model number (I presume they were Barients) of the mast-mounted halyard winches originally mounted to a Mark III? When I acquired the boat, all running rigging had been led aft. Thanks in advance.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
The original manuals for the 27s were pretty rudimentary. That said, I have one, as well as a raft of other material I've compiled since acquiring my Mark III. I can photocopy it this week and mail it to you. Also, I hope you'll joing the association; it's a tremendous source of information and experience. Cheers.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
What shape is your tank? If it's the rectangular unit with rounded horizontal edges (which is what I have in my boat), it's slightly shallower than it is wide. If so, the first step, obviously, is to siphon the gas completely (I did this by carefully removing the fuel level sending unit and, after the tank was empty, the fuel fill elbow. Then, with the wooden retainer removed at the aft end, you slide the tank back, rotate it tank 90 degrees horizontally, and stand it on end. You can remove it without having to remove trim or shave FRP. I did mine last summer so that I could have it cleaned and pressure tested.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
Track installed successfully. The 60" overall length was dictated by the fact that's what my local chandler had in stock. I followed the 27 manual's recommended 3'6" above the goosneck. Drilling and tapping 17 holes on an upright mast made it interesting. Thanks for the input.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
Having acquired a spinnaker, I'm now tackling installation of the requisite hardware. My manual (Fig. 3 mast and rigging) is typically rudimentary in that it only shows 3'6" of the mast track installed above the black tape but no dimension for the track shown below that. Is there a minimum/optimum overall length? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
Having considered a DIY job -- including purchasing Don Casey's excellent Canvaswork & Sail Repair, which also incorporates well-illustrated instructions for upholstery -- I opted for a professional job simply because of the learning curve and the real prospect of doing a poor job myself with fabric that cost more than $40 a yard. I was fortunate enough to have had home furniture upholstery redone several years ago and so had a positive experience to fall back on. I found the material I wanted, gave him the old cushions and he did a great job which likely will outlast me. Ken Baldeston, The Upholstery Shoppe, Westport, Ont., tel. (613) 273-3665. I have recommended him to several friends and the response has been universally positive. It helps that Ken's a boater, even if he's on the "dark side" of the fund, i.e. powerboating. <IMG src="http://www.cc27association.com/f3/toast/emoticons/icon_cheesygrin.gif" border=0>
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
Yeah, Garhauer builds their hardware the way the Russkies build rocket boosters. <IMG src="http://www.cc27association.com/f3/toast/emoticons/icon_lol.gif" border=0>
That said, since I'm a PS subscriber, I could download the article and e-mail to you.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
If you don't sell your mast, I'd be interested in all the standing rigging, including turnbuckles, as well as a stern ladder if you had one. Perhaps even bow casting, anchor locker lid if you had one, etc. Look forward to hearing from you again (I inadvertently wiped the message you sent Monday night).
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
Greg, for what it's worth, Practical Sailor gave the Garhauer unit a rave review in its April 2006 issue. Their products might seem a little, um, Soviet in the way they're built, but they're great -- and from a perusal of general Garhauer feeback in PS, they stand firmly behind their products. I've switched all my blocks and line clutches to Garhauer and plan to do likewise eventually with the mainsheet traveller.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
Hi Mike. Sorry to hear about the candy-ass court ruling. That said, I'm interested in acquiring some parts. You listed in Sparta NJ? If so, I have your number. If not, where can I call you? Best of luck.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
This message is essentially for our illustrious Administrator but I'm sure his reply would be of interest to all and sundry. Is it time for membership fees? Cheers.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa