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What you have is normal and what you have done is right. The casting at the foot of the mast sits in U-shaped channel with s/s pins fore and aft to locate it securely. Most people don't seem to shim the mast to prevent twisting, but I think it's a good idea. One additional thing you can do is to make the rubber tubing in the spreader sockets a very tight fit. The less your spreaders move fore and aft, the less your shroud tension will vary from tack to tack.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
You might have a machine shop do something to limit the degree to which the prop can open, but my recollection of the comments from Gori owners is that while these props are marginally better at reverse thrust than Michigans and Martecs, they are very poor in reverse in comparison to the newer makes of geared props. There's probably not much you can do about it. See comments from Kats Paw in http://www.cc27association.com/fixes/props.html
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
FOR SALE
2 Racing sails for a C & C 27 Mark III
1. Bay Sails Dacron #2 LP 4907mm HHW 2326mm Bought new April 2016 - Used sparingly 3 seasons and in excellent condition $800
2. Doyle Pentex Main sail Bought new September 27 2007 and not used since 2015. Very good condition.$200
$900 for both
Location Hamilton
Would make a great stocking stuffer!
Paul Vayda 905-520-5354
pvayda@gmail.com
Please note that all responses should be directed straight to the seller's email or phone, not through the Forum. - Admin
I can't claim any experience-based expertise on the matter of transocean sailing, but I can tell you where you will find a lot of knowledge, in the offshore racing guides to preparation and their attendant mandated equipment lists. The following are based on discussions with sailors who have sailed across oceans, a lot of reading and a lot of racing around the lakes.
Almost certainly, you're going to want:
- real seacocks to replace the throughhull/gate-valve combination that C&C used up to the last 27's, along with softwood plugs and a mallet;
- a vented loop in the exhaust line to prevent large waves against the stern from creating a siphon back through the exhaust system that destroys the engine;
- a vented loop in the head inlet line;
- stronger lifelines and jacklines, with reinforcing plates under the lifeline, pushpit and pulpit bases;
- positive locks to prevent the companion board from sliding out if you are knocked down, with a similar lock on the companion slide;
- seriously beefed-up battery hold-downs to keep them in place in case of a knockdown;
- LED nav and interior lights to minimize electrical demand;
- ridiculous numbers of powerful waterproof flashlights with lots of spare batteries, all located where you can find them easily while blindfolded (blundering around in the dark and not accomplishing anything seems to figure largely in many yachting disasters).
I'd also have the rigging replaced, or at least inspected.
This is really the beginning of a list -- I know a fellow who sailed the Newport-Bermuda Race and he had a mandated checklist and set of standards that filled three large binders. It's only a start but I hope this is useful.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
PS I've heard that someone sailed from the southern US to the Mediterranean, but no details. The Ireland adventure was from Dublin to Norway and back, a trip made incomparably more difficult by the tidal currents around the north of Scotland.
Note that the article says, "The Yanmar 2GM and 2YM engines are virtually a drop-in replacement. You don't touch the glass (see Ralph's comment above). The steel angles on top of the fibreglass or wood beds need to be changed, but anyone who can use a measuring tape and hold a hacksaw and a drill can do that."
I had to take my original steel beds out and replace them to get the engine to the right height, but the difference is only in the bed height, not the width, so you don't have to do any glass work. That would have been a problem; drilling a few holes in steel angles then bolting them back in was not.
While you're in there with the engine out, replace every hose you can see. You'll never have better access (and you'll need to put in a larger exhaust hose). Also, I suggest you stick sound insulation to, at minimum, the underside of the cockpit and all the accessible areas around the front of the engine.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
C&C 27 MK V ( 1987 Racer/Cruiser, N.O.T.L Hull #170 )
HighLights:
- Most Popular Small Yacht racer/cruiser ever made & sold in North America
- A FANTASTIC Sailboat, strong, light, fast, smooth, stable, & perfectly balanced in all weather
- One of very few C&C 27 MKV’s with OUTBOARD engine (solid Mercury 9.9 Longshaft [2001])
- Last Original C&C employee built/owned NOTL sailboat, (W/custom “Smoke” rig race pack)
(Heavy Duty mast, boom, rigging, hand rails, lines/organizers/clutches/winches configuration)
Updated Equipment includes:
- 7 sails (2main, 2 genny, 2 spin, 1 blade, 4/6 years and older)
- Winches – Original Barient self-tailing 10’s / Newer Lewmar 2 speed, self-tailing 30’s
- New Lewmar SZ1 (4x1) MainSheet Traveller, Garhauer HD (6x1) MainSheet Blocks
- Spectra/Dyneema lines/halyards led aft to cockpit via new Harken “quad” clutches
- Roomy Full size 6’1 Cabin ht, 2 sinks, 5 berths for excellent lake cruising
- Huge storage space, two built-in fridge coolers, gimballed stove, +++
- Large cockpit comfortably fits 6 for all day cruising, plus built in “high-side” coaming seats
- Tiller steering (great control, extra cockpit room), swim ladder, large aft pulpit
- Full coverage newer Bimini and Dodger awnings for great weather protection
- New VHF radio, great clarion stereo system, folding 6-point steel cradle
SERIOUS ENQUIRIES ONLY: TORONTO
Call: 647-770-2789 email: consortmkv@yahoo.ca
Please note that all responses should be directed straight to the seller's email or phone, not through the Forum. - Admin
All-purpose #1 155% genoa from Bay Sails Haarstick, Hamilton. This is a full hoist racing #1 from a Mk IV (deck casting to masthead). It is dark grey Technora laminate with a tape luff. Probably could have the luff shortened for a furler but that's up to you. There is some roughness in the fabric near the foot from hitting the shrouds, but according to the sailmaker who inspected it, the sail is structurally sound. Original cost $2300 plus tax. $600 firm. Please use the email address at http://www.cc27association.com/fleet/source/towser.html
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Choosing a prop based solely on the distance between the end of the shaft and the surface of the hull won't give you enough data to make a good choice. There are too many other variables to consider - that's why we have the props page, so people can list their choices and their degree of satisfaction with it. If you're buying new, let me say I've had good luck with manufacturer's suggestions.
I will try to get a keyway dimension next week.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
If you go to http://www.cc27association.com/fixes/fixes.html and read the material on props and propellers, you’ll know as much as any of us do. What you have is probably a 7/8” shaft with an SAE taper, but read all the material on our pages and on the linked pages to get up to speed.
I’’m sorry but the page on specific props doesn’t offer much help for the Yanmar 1GM. When you’ve done the job and have a few months experience with the new prop, I’d appreciate a report (top speed in flat water, behaviour in rough water, general sense of how well the prop and engine are mated). Have fun and good luck.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Not strictly a 27 issue, but I thought I'd pass this on as more and more people are wearing these vests.
First, my wife and I took a course on sea survival from Eric Hill, an RCAF navigator aboard RCN helicopters and leader of Canadian Forces' adventure sail training program (http://seasurvival.ca/index.html). Over two days, we learned to handle flares safely, how to board a life raft from the water in full foul weather gear, why you should jump in the water and experience an inflatable vest being triggered in the water and why you should fit leg straps to your vest. Highly recommended if he ever teaches the course near you.
We also learned that the services' support people regularly manually inflate, wash and hang their vests to dry, as a vest that won't inflate, or a vest that inflates and immediately deflates could be very disappointing. We don't do this every time we use them, but we do manually/orally inflate our vests, wash them and hang them up inflated in the basement over winter. That's the easy part.
The less fun part is deflating the vests and re-packing them; getting all the air out so they will pack properly is not easy. I even asked Mustang if they had a means of doing this. No.
But I finally found one this week. 1/4" inside diameter fuel hose, which is approximately 7/16" outside diameter, is a snug fit inside the opening of the oral inflation tube, and effectively depresses the valve inside that tube so that air flows freely out of the vest when you press on the buoyancy tubes. It will also hold this valve open while you gently suck the last bit of air out, which makes it dead easy to re-pack the vest.
Total cost at Canadian Tire for a foot of this miracle solution: $1.19.
If you decide to get your own deflation hose, I suggest you take your vest in and check your store's hose against your vest's tube. My store had clear tube (not fuel hose) that didn't quite fit, while the black rubber hose was a perfect fit, depressing the non-return valve without a struggle.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Just discovered this in a list of boat replacement parts for our Mk IV. This is from the time we had an Atomic 4
"Shift cable is Morse 032377--003 0096.0 8748"
A good chandlery should be able to tell you if this makes sense as a Morse number for a tiller-steered 27.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Without seeing your entire setup, I can only hit a few high spots. I'd be inclined to secure the tack right at the stemhead and put the pennant/tether at the head to improve the end plate effect.
Everyone at my club sets their main shrouds very tight ("If you can open your cupboard doors easily, tighten the shrouds some more.") and set the forward lowers just tight enough to prevent inverted bend in a blow, no more; the aft lowers should be snug enough not to wave in the breeze and little more.
Finally, have a look at your spreader inboard ends. Do they hold the spreaders firmly fore-and-aft or can you wiggle the spreaders back and forth? If they wiggle easily, they will move fore or aft under load, which loosens the weather shroud, thereby negating all your work in tightening. This will contribute to a failure to point and probably, to different tacking angles on the wind.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
You should treat our data as definitive.
Except... every owner I've ever talked to who has done the full IMS process -- which involves stripping out the boat and then weighing it -- has lamented that they've come in way over the manufacturer's spec weight (a C&C 99 came in 800 lb over spec! -- outrageous for a one-design racer!). So add a fudge factor -- like 1000 lb to make allowance for a "few" extra pails of resin in build, the weight of water absorbed by the hull, and the weight of the stuff you can't be bothered taking out of the boat. Make sure the trailer and tow vehicle are safe with that weight; some earnest diy'er tried to tow his boat home with a totally inadequate rig, lost control at 80km/h and lost the boat -- and fortunately only the boat -- off the edge of an elevated highway.
I mentioned earlier that the total height at the pulpit is 12 feet, with a 14.5" allowance for the cradle height. That 14.5", I think, is your critical variable dimension (unless you want to start pulling the pulpit, spray hood and pushpit off). Is the height of the trailer's keel plate above the road more or less than 14.5"? That measurement will tell you if you need more or less than the 12 feet I measured on my MkIV.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
If the water is clean, it won't necessarily streak. Nor will it if, as on my boat, it comes in around one of the plastic access covers -- for instance at the mast -- and drips directly down into the bilge. The best idea I've ever heard for finding non-streaking inflows is to mark the suspect area with chalk. A line below a toerail, or around a fitting's bolts will be washed away and provide ample proof that the leak is there. White chalk is best; coloured chalk will show more clearly but you never know how persistent the dyes could be. Some people suggest whiteboard marker, but again, the persistence of the dye is unknown until you find you've got a purple line that won't come out of your bulkhead.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
One of the issues that keeps coming up here is the cutless/cutlass bearing spec. (Incidentally, the industry-preferred spelling is "cutless" but both spellings are used.) Gerard Warner reported he used a
Johnson Duramax ACID Brass cutless bearing
Shaft Size: 7/8 inch
Outside Diameter: 1-1/4 inch
Length: 3-1/2 inch
but that immediately raises the question, is that the spec for other Marks? C&C tended to stick with its hardware through many years and models (my mast is almost identical to a Mk I’s mast, other than in shroud arrangement, despite the many differences in the hull and deck). I expect Gerard's spec will work for all Marks but it would be nice to know for sure.
Later - visited club and measured several boats' p-brackets and bearings. These specs turn out to be identical with the specs (measured externally with a caliper gauge) for a Mk I, a Mk IV and a mid-run C&C 30; clearly, when C&C found something that worked they stuck with it. I think we can be confident of this item.</br>
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Looking for a furling genoa for a mark iii.
Our email is shannon.oickle@bellaliant.net
Please note that the buyer is not a Forum member, so all responses should be directed straight to the buyer's email or phone, not through the Forum.
They are variously called "Windscoops", "Windchutes" or similar, and Googling either one will give you a variety of sources, including a site that provides a pattern for making your own.
Hot summer in Newfoundland, eh? Heatwaves where the mercury was consistently over 15 degrees? Boy what a scorcher! The only time I was in NL (in July), I was never out of my windbreaker (at a minimum), while the locals were disporting themselves in t-shirts, shorts and flip-flops, and exclaiming to one another about the tropical temperatures. Mind you, I'd go back in a heartbeat, the island is so beautiful.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
I have a Caframo Ultimate 2-speed fan on the port side of the bow bulkhead and another high up on the port side of the main bulkhead. They do an excellent job of clearing hot air when we first come aboard and, at low speed, keeping the air fresh while we're sleeping (complemented by a framed screen and Velcro'd forward screen like yours). There are stainless steel louvres on the faces of the berths; I'm not sure how much good they actually contribute, but there's no smell or mildew in the under-seat compartments or the bilge.
http://www.caframolifestylesolutions.com/product/marine/ultimate-copy/
Quite a few people here have the Nicro solar-powered vents mounted on the companion slide. I've never questioned anyone about the pros and cons, but it's a popular idea.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
That's a welcome change from the comparison review some years back in Sailing World, in which the reviewer came to an unfavourable conclusion about our 27 based on his utter inability to keep the stats straight, confusing all five marks of the boat into a horrible camel of a boat that wouldn't sail in less than a gale.
Sailing World used to be a good magazine, but since Sailing Anarchy appeared, they've been running scared in a race to the bottom.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Years ago, a defence contractor employee told me about being summoned to a frigate in the Rio de Janeiro naval dockyard because an anti-aircraft missile launcher on the vessel was failing its test routines. He found the captain on his knees in front of the open fire-control panel, poking at connections to see if he could tell if there was power as sparks would come off them. He very diplomatically told the captain that this might launch a couple of missiles into the city and was therefore not an ideal troubleshooting method.
This story notwithstanding, I have been trying to repair the damage done during the long Xmas outage by doing something akin to what the captain was attempting. I don't know what the guys at the web host did to the site during the outage, and I'm not sure they know either. I've scanned and patched up a lot of the site, but as you'll understand, time is short at this time of the year. So, help please. If you find anything that doesn't work, please let me know.
Thank you.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV