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I have a Mk I with leaking occurring from along the Hull/Deck joint and I am considering removing and rebedding the Toerail to stop it.
Anyone done this? Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance for any help or advice provided.
Dan Robert
CHIMO III
C&C 27 Mk I
Before you go through the BIG job of rebedding you might just try tightening the current fastners. This can be done in a few hours by having someone on deck holding the screw bolts in place while another person below tightens the nuts (Doing it this way is recommended so as to not disturb the seal between the bolts and the deck). This often slows and may even stop toe-rail leaks and it is a MUCH easier process. It will probably squeeze out some of the butyl (the gummy sealing strip) that will need to be cleaned from the outside of the boat.
There is also the possibility of leaking between the deck and hull to consider. Rebedding the toe-rail will not replace the seal between here and so the leaking problem may not be solved. And, obviously, redoing the deck-hull joint is a job no one wants to approach.
Gord
Kat's Paw I, Toronto. ON
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1. Has anyone removed a toe rail? I think I will have to remove one where it has obviously been tightened before (as evidenced by the squeezed out compound) and has a persistent leak.
2. Has anyone thought of installing a scupper to address the standing water behind the toe rail? Warren Smith
Serendipity
I had my toe rails removed and rebeaded and they still leaked two years latter, after two years of retightining they have finally stopped, go figure, I guess all the torque that the deck joint takes must be hard to seal. Part of the problem could also be that your rub rail has detererated, it also acts as a gasket between the deck and the toe rail.
Try this: detach the blade of a hacksaw from the frame and pass it through the appropriate hole in the toerail (i.e. at hole closest to point of maximum water collection when no one is on the boat); reattach the blade to the hacksaw frame so you can now cut the flat part of the toerail. Cut carefully to one side of the hole (fore or aft of the centre point) Avoid damaging the fibreglass. It can be done with some care, or a little tape on the deck will help. Once through the toerail base, move the saw blade to the opposite end of the toerail-hole and repeat. The object is to cut a quarter-inch or so piece out of the base of the toerail to create a channel for water to exit. When complete, remove the piece from the base and repaint the area to match the toerail, including the spot on the deck that is now the channel overboard. It works. Have had no problems and water drains away nicely. (Also works on C&C 30 Mk 1)
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Years ago, one of the sailing magazines suggested running a hose fitting up through the deck to deal with standing water. Specifically, they suggested using a fitting with the hose barb on one end and threads on the other. The idea was to epoxy or 5200 the threaded end flush with the deck so the water would drain away to a tube that exited into the cockpit near its drains.
I have to say it strikes me as a lot of bother for a relatively minor aesthetic problem, but it is infinitely superior to the notion of hacking away a piece of the alloy toerail, a component that when intact must contribute significantly to the strength of the boat.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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