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Nice message. All the best in your new adventures. We're having a great summer aboard our gracious old Mk II, decked out in all new this and that.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
Interesting. Never thought of doing that. I wonder though about stress on the toe rail? I have been pondering installing midship cleats with deck through bolts/backing plate and lifting the cleat above the rail using a wooden block between the deck and the cleat.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
Before connecting to a battery, I'd suggest drawing a full schematic of the existing wiring to sort out existing wires and potential current flows. Old boats are so often modified by previous owners. Not sure about the dangling wiring, or those 3 black wires. When we did our refit, I consolidated all the wiring, ending up with only one ground wire on the engine block leading back to the engine's main battery on/off switch, and only one ground wire from there to the engine start battery. We also have a ground bus for other circuits. Some alternators ground through their bolt point to the engine block, some have a dedicated ground wire, and if that black wire is DC ground, then it might possibly be part of another circuit, like the alternator's regulator. Hard to tell from here. Hope that helps a bit.
(Since we also have a house battery, we actually have a dual switch system to allow for emergency battery combining, but that's another matter.)
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
During the refit couple of years ago I used light sanding after washing (a cabinet maker friend recommended steel wool, but steel wool on a boat with fibreglass is not a good idea owing to rust spots later), followed by an oil wipe, followed by a coat of thinned varnish, followed by a coat of full strength varnish. Came out like new. A previous owner who is fastidious about his boats had already restored the wood using a similar method, so I did not have a major task. This year I made some modifications to the panelling in a couple of places and after I was done wiped the dings with dark walnut Danish oil. The dings all but vanished.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
This task requires patience, time and planning. Three years of thinking about it and rehearsal paid off.
When I removed the rails, several of the original brass or bronze screws broke off in the wood. I consulted several woodworkers and in the end we decided I had to move the rails along a bit and drill new holes. Since I had potted the holes in the deck prior to painting, I also had to redrill the 32 holes in the deck. Hence my long procrastination.
The teak plywood wall in the head on the starboard side prevented me from getting access to the four screws for the forward two sections of the outside rail, so during the prep phase I cut down the top edge of that plywood wall to 3", to just above the shelf. The original cap lifted off easily and I was able to reattach it perfectly with finishing nails, then re-varnish. We'll put some netting up there to make it a useable storage shelf. Gives more natural light into the head anyway.
The 4000 went on very well. We put the rails on with 4 loose screws, and then masked off the deck and handrails with 2" masking tape. Then we removed the rails again, and started installing from the aft end, applying 4000 to two sections of the rails at a time and screwing those two sections snug. The rails bend enough that we could access the deck to apply 4000 for the next two until done. The 4000 nicely filled the crevices, I think better than butyl would have done. Nextg morning I used a razor knife to slice away the excess and removed the masking tape, which left a clean edge.
My major concern was lining up those 4" #14 screws to attach the inside rails, and sure enough one cracked the inboard side of the outside rail section. We also cracked a section with a small screw, and I found two divots created by screws from the original installation. I ground all those down with a Dremmel tool and filled them with epoxy. I add a second big screw to that section for strength.
Came out well. Now, let's see if there are any leaks...
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
Thanks for that -- I have had all the same experiences here as you have. 1/16" butyl tape has worked very nicely on all the deck fittings. The only other place on deck I ended up using 4200 was the manal Whale bilge pump in the cockpit deck, which finally stopped the drips. I went with 4000 for the handrails for the UV protection and better discolouration resistance. Butyl settles so much in summer heat that I couldn't see ever getting decent clamping owing to the way the handrails attach to a Mark II deck/deckhead, and the 4000 might provide a little adhesive force to supplement the screws too.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
We refitted the boat two years ago, but after potting all the handrail screw holes I did not get around to reinstalling the teak handrails until this spring. All the prep is done and I am ready to screw them back down; now I need to pick a sealant to keep water out of the screw holes. I like butyl tape for deck hardware, but I'm not certain whether to use it or a product like 4200 for this task. If I use butyl, I can't do my usual procedure because turning the screws will simply strip the butyl, so I would make rings around the screws instead. Thoughts? 4200 has worked well for me when there are slight imperfections between the hardware and the deck, as in this case. It's messy and I would have to mask off carefully, whereas butyl is much simpler to work with, and will allow me to remove the rails more cleanly and easily if I need to.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
Scott, Excellent info, thanks. It would be nice to find more details on an appropriate modern exhaust system design for the C&C 27. There are a couple of threads here, but still have a lot of questions.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
Bear in mind I have experience with only one, and only two years out so far.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
Aside from age and decay issues and cost to build, what are some issues with the design concept?
You've seen lots Ken, so perhaps it was a one-off. Nice unit.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
I did that couple of years ago. TSP'd the surface to remove waxes and oils, rinsed with freshwater, sanded the surface, then 3 coats of white melamine paint from a Benjamin Moore store, rolled and tipped. Came out just great. That paint dries slowly, but I had a heated workshop. Wear respirator and have good ventilation. I plan to do the head and v-berth in the spring.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
I'm fine with typing the security image. It's worth it, and I appreciate your work in maintaining this list. Small price to pay.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
[Thank you - but I'm still thinking about migrating to open source software with a more comprehensive feature set. On the other hand I can't complain - the guys (financially desperate, every one of them) who are writing the scripts for attacking our web site probably once spent their days writing targeting codes for the USSR's nuclear arsenal - if they can screw a few dollars out of people who are credulous enough to believe they can buy 10-cent Viagra, I think their new jobs are a good bargain for their society and ours. - Admin]
[b]
"No one went broke underestimating public taste." [There you have it - the notion that "never give a sucker an even break" is not only a working hypothesis but a complete philosophical foundation that can be projected out into all human relations. It's only unfortunate that Barnum was not alive in an era like ours, where this could be patented as a "business method", such as Amazon's One-Click Ordering.]
Has anybody ever seen the C&C 27 exhaust system shown in the pictures in this post?
http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?p=29510
It is from a C&C 27 Mark I, and looks like it might even be original?
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
After two seasons with this boat, which fits our bill perfectly, we really miss the fridge we had on the big boat. Ice just doesn't cut it. We only need electrical food cooling dockside, and we do not need to keep food frozen. The options are not so easy to sort out. I had hoped to add a 110V cooling plate to the icebox, and I think someone once had one there in this boat judging from the old wiring I removed in the refit, but it is long gone and such units appear to hog space outside the icebox and add weight to the stern. I seriously considered chopping out the icebox and putting a small bar fridge on a platform in that space, but that seems like a bad idea for many reasons, including structural, spatial and hardware quality. A plug-in cooler would take up too much floor space, and there isn't much room in a C&C 27 to hide one. Plug-in coolers tend to use DC power, but I would want to plug it into 110V. Any thoughts?
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
Ralph - enjoyed your blog. Our boats are only a dozen numbers apart and both obviously still bringing much pleasure to two families. We got them a year apart, I see. Interesting that you got three rings of 5/16 to work. I only had about three threads left when I put three rings in ours, and it felt tight. Pretty sure I used 5/16 too. I must have tightened the box too much before putting the boat in the water for the first time.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
I tried 3 rings of either 1/4" or 5/16", but got no drip. Either it was too large in diameter, or I should have gone with two rings, or I tightened the packing gland too much prior to launching. I do recall I used 3 rings of Teflon packing, and that I did not have many threads to play with, so I after trying to back off the packing nut a couple of times gingerly, I went to a PSS shaft seal instead of fiddling around further.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
I don't yet have enough reason to think I need to drop the keel to inspect the bolts and revise the joint, but it's stormy out so I am researching and making notes should that be necessary.
I searched the archives for "keel" and found no discussion of anyone's experience doing that with a C&C 27. Nothing with Google either, but there is a fair bit of discussion about the importance of revising the joint periodically on other boats, especially if there is any evidence that seawater is getting to the bolts (unexplained saltwater in the bilge, or signs of weeping at the keel joint after haulout, for example). The only way to check the bolts visually is to drop the keel and look at them.
1. Anyone had experience dropping the keel off a C&C 27 Mark I-II to revise that joint?
2. Anyone know how the C&C 27's keel bolts are embedded in the lead keel? Are they J? Can they be removed if one is corroded and needs replacing?
3. Ours each have small steel (not SS I don't think) plate under the nuts inside the boat, and a washer or two on top of that. Replace with SS if I can back the nuts off at retightening?
4. Did the forum settle the question of whether to back off and then tighten the forward nuts with the boat on the hard versus in the water?
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
Great news -- nice trip! If we ever meet up here on the coast I will be interested in comparing notes.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
I did mine last year. Warm water/soap, and careful not to stretch in the corners or anywhere else. I had to massage carefully. Takes a feel that is hard to explain. Like John, one window leaked a hair in very heavy rain, but I have not seen it do that this summer. I seem to recall that I had a bit of wrinkling in a couple of corners, but it went away with time. Went much easier than I had anticipated, actually. Watching friends struggle with their window replacements on other types of boats, I am pleased with this setup. The one concern I had was that maybe the plexi was a hair thinner than the original, but so far everything is working out fine.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
Do you mean for an engine ignition panel, or for the battery charging system? Blue Sea makes nice units for the latter. I installed a Blue Sea DC breaker panel with digital ammeter when I rewired last year. That allowed me to ditch the ammeter on the ignition panel and replace it with a voltmeter instead, as well as simplify the charging system and shorten wire runs.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
The MA-200 charges the iPod. Two ways to connect an iPodin addition to AUX: USB port on either the watertight docking bay or back of the head unit, or insert into the docking bay and close the door. The docking unit has video output too, enabling movies on a screen or laptop from the iPod. The head unit menuing and control system is very nicely integrated with the iPod -- same look and feel. I like the way it is possible to control either pair of speakers independently (cockpit or cabin). No CD, but has a Sirius satellite radio port as well, and can process AM, FM and VHF signals. Small footprint and easy to install, too. The 6.5" marine speakers slipped right into the transom access ports perfectly. I can use the iPod docking bay/remote control to switch songs but not control volume, so ordered a Fusion wired remote for the cockpit. Great to have tunes on the boat. Very slick kit (head unit, docking bay, pair of speaker, iPod adapters and cables). Cost not much more than a car deck and a pair of marine speakers. I think the kits just came out in May. Binnacle is carrying them.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
Finally solved our boat sound system choice problem (C&C 27 Mk II). After searching for a digital non-CD solution compatible with iPod, I was just about to cave and go with a car deck with Aux input and a couple of low-end "marine" speakers when I discovered Fusion's new all-digital RA-200 kit, which they just released in May for boats our size. Thought others might be interested in this option -- I have no commercial interest in Fusion.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
I suspect that when the cork is gone, the old pump is done. I hauled out the two originals and replaced them with new Whale Galley Gusher pumps -- work like a charm.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
Yes, an old bladder is a nasty thing on a Mark II. We took out the one that came with our boat, cleaned that space thoroughly, and have been looking at options. There is a description on the net of a fibreglass DIY solution for that space. Two other spaces are in the Vberth locker just forward of the forward head bulkhead, and the main cabin locker just aft of the aft head bulkhead. Some have gone to portable potties.