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Looking for a folding Martec prop for our MK 3 after the hub of our existing prop fractured. Current prop is a RH 14Dx10P-3, on a 7/8" shaft. We also have a Federal Sailor 13RH11 fixed 2 blade prop that we'd be willing to trade (+ some $'s). Photos available. Please e-mail BlueZulu at magma dot ca, or call at 613-302-0318. Thanks.Hugh Morrin
Blue Zulu
MK III, #894
Nepean Sailing Club
I've raced all my life but am now learning the finer points of cruising with my wife and two young kids. After spending this past weekend on the water, I've come to realize that some form of sun shade over the cockpit is a necessity. I'm looking for something that can be put up quickly while at a mooring, but taken down and stowed while sailing. I'm thinking of some type of light nylon, supported by collapsible fiberglass tent poles, that could go over the boom and be tied off to the lifelines. I'd also like to project it aft of the backstay. I doubt I can find anything suitable off the shelf, but does anyone have any suggestions or advice, or a design that works well? Or advice on things I should avoid? Anybody, by any chance, have anything like this they'd like to sell? Look forward to your suggestions and advice.Hugh Morrin
Blue Zulu
MK III, #894
Nepean Sailing Club
All,
We purchased a new Carbon-Kevlar #1 in mid August of this past summer, but it seemed a little long in the luff as we had a hard time getting enough luff tension. A friend and our closest competitor purchased essentially the same sail before the start of the season. We both sent our sails back to the sailmaker recently and asked him to check them out. The sailmaker confirmed that our sail was 6” longer than our competitor’s when laid flat with only moderate tension. However, when both sails were tensioned with 60 lbs, our sail was only 2” longer. The sailmaker attributed the 4” difference between tensioned and no tension to our competitor’s sail developing more “elasticity” from use. He also explained that our competitor’s sail was designed to be 2 cm (~3/4”) shorter in the luff, though he wasn’t completely clear on why this was. That still leaves a difference of ~1.25”, that the sailmaker attributed to shrinkage of our competitor’s sail. So, my questions for all you experts out there, are:
1) Does it make sense that a sail develops more “elasticity” as it ages? This is counter-intuitive to me. Usually as springs wear out, they develop less “elasticity”.
2) Does it make sense that a sail that has seen 5 months of use would shrink 1.25” more than one that has seen 1.5 months use? That seems like a big difference to me.
Your thoughts and comments would be appreciated.Hugh Morrin
Blue Zulu
MK III, #894
Nepean Sailing Club
Oops ... that should have read 155%. Hugh
Sorry, Clare, your statement about non-folding props is not correct. You get a +6 sec/mile adjustment for a 2-blade fixed pitch prop. For everything you wanted to know but were afraid to ask about PHRF, see the PHRF-LO Handicapper's Manual, available at http://www.phrf-lo.org/Manual.htm. Propulsion is covered in section 7.5, page 45.
Hugh Morrin
NSC PHRF Handicapper
Blue Zulu
MK III, #894
Nepean Sailing Club
The hoses for the cockpit drains on our '81 MK III were dried and cracked, so we've decided to replace them. They are probably original, and the black 1.5" ID hose, with its steel reinforcing, was very difficult to remove. (If anyone has a suggestion for an easier technique, it would be appreciated! We've only removed one, at this point.) Looking for advice on what type of hose to use as a replacement. The easiest to fit would probably be PVC bilge hose, but I'm not sure whether there are any concerns with heat being that close to the engine. The other option would be a soft-wall water exhaust hose, but it's much less pliable, and thus would, I suspect, be much more difficult to install. Anyone that has any suggestions on this process, we'd love to hear from you!
The hose from the holding tank to the deck pump-out fitting is of the same variety as the cockpit drains, also 1.5" ID. We picked up some sanitation hosing to replace that, and some 3/4" ID sanitation hose for the holding tank vent. What we're not sure about yet, or haven't decided upon, is whether we should replace the hose from the head to the holding tank. This hose, on our boat, is a red Type A fuel line hose. We do have problems with odours from the head, and not sure whether this is likely coming from the hoses. Comments/suggestions? If we do replace this line, does anybody know how long that segment is?
Speaking of measurements, this is what we've noted:
<UL>
<LI>Cockpit Drains: 14.5" x 1.5" ID
<LI>Holding Tank - Pump-out: 12.25" x 1.5" ID
<LI>Holding Tank Vent: <X-TAB> </X-TAB>18" x 3/4" ID </LI></UL>Hugh Morrin
Blue Zulu
MK III, #894
Nepean Sailing Club
Further to the recent Forum inquiry about mainsheeting systems (<A href="http://www.cc27association.com/f3/toast/toast.asp?sub=show&action=posts&fid=2&tid=925">http://www.cc27association.com/f3/toast/toast.asp?sub=show&action=posts&fid=2&tid=925</A>), I strongly recommend the Harken 3:1 / 6:1 two-speed mainsheet systems. See <A href="http://www.harken.com/traveler/45392spd.pdf">www.harken.com/traveler/45392spd.pdf</A> for a description. This system incorporates two ratchet blocks, and allows you to pull two lines together for crude adjustments (3:1), or for playing and adjusting the main, pull only one line and get 6:1 purchase. It's not a cheap option (~$500 Cdn), but it is worth it, unless you have a gorilla who is always on the main. We use it with a 66' x 5/16" diameter mainsheet. Hugh Morrin
Blue Zulu
MK III, #894
Nepean Sailing Club
Last summer we re-torqued our keel bolts (or, more specifically, the nuts on the threaded stainless rods). It is best to do the forward nuts when the boat is in the water, as when it's sitting on the keel, the forward "bolts" are in tension. The aft nuts can be done either in the water or on the cradle. If I recall correctly, there were two nuts of 1.25", and two of 1.5"; I think the larger nuts were on 1" threaded rod. Unfortunately, we needed deep sockets for one of each size and it took us awhile to find someone with deep sockets that large. We torqued them as much as we could with an 18" driver, which was probably less than the 350 ft-lbs suggested above. I doubt they had been re-torqued in at least 10 years. Most of them turned about a quarter turn, though we were able to put more than one full turn on one.Hugh Morrin
Blue Zulu
MK III, #894
Nepean Sailing Club
Our MK III has the tapered-plug type bronze Seacox fittings. A couple of ours were stuck in the open position when we bought the boat, and we decided to take them apart to service them. The maintenance instructions suggest doing this annually at haul-out, but I suspect this was the first time ours had been apart in a long time! They all showed varying levels of corrosion, likely from when the boat spent a couple of years in salt water in the 80's. The maintenance instructions suggest using emery cloth and/or valve grinding compound, but the valve grinding compound I got seems pretty coarse, and I'm wondering if I might be doing more damage than good. Does anybody have experience servicing these? Should I worry about trying to smooth the plugs, or just lubricate them and re-assemble them? Also, any suggestions for a lubricant? Manual says use a waterproof grease, but others have suggested Vasoline or vegetable oil. And for next year, need we bother servicing these if they're operating smoothly?Hugh Morrin
Blue Zulu
MK III, #894
Nepean Sailing Club
Our MK III has VC 17 over VC Tar, but the bottom isn't in great shape and there are lots of areas where the VC Tar didn't bond well. We had thought about stripping off all the VC Tar and taking it down to the gelcoat, then putting on Interprotect, but we decided to put that off for another year. However, our hull-keel joint isn't in very good shape, and we're wondering about just doing the rudder and keel this year, and perhaps the rest of the bottom next year. Anybody have any suggestions or advice, in particular, what to use to fair the hull-keel joint? Would you take the keel down to the bare lead?Hugh Morrin
Blue Zulu
MK III, #894
Nepean Sailing Club
I know conventional wisdom says that you should remove your batteries over the winter and trickle charge them occasionally. But our boat came with a solar panel that trickle charges both batteries through an isolator. I am wondering if there is any reason to remove them, or would it be OK to leave them on the boat with the solar charger connected. Any thoughts?Hugh Morrin
Blue Zulu
MK III, #894
Nepean Sailing Club
You can order keys from Yanmar if you give them the model number of your engine -- the keys are all the same. I looked into it this spring, but the price was $27.54 + taxes! However, a clever local Ottawa locksmith (McEvoy-Lock) made us a couple of spares by grinding a bit off the side of the key. $5 for the pair.
If you can't get a copy made, the P/N I was given for our 2GM was 124070-91290. If you can't get them locally, you could probably mail order them from Nepean Marine & Motor Services, 613-828-4340.Hugh Morrin
Blue Zulu
MK III, #894
Nepean Sailing Club
Anybody have a cradle or trailer for a MK III they'd be interested in selling? We bought our boat without either. Assuming we won't be able to get anything used, our alternative is to order one from the Marine Cradle Shop in Markham (905-294-3507). We'd get a 5-pad cradle with the heavy duty frame, so that we could put the the boat and cradle on a flatbed truck or trailer, should we ever want to do so. Anyone have any comments or suggestions?
Thanks.Hugh Morrin
Blue Zulu
MK III, #894
Nepean Sailing Club
This post started as a reply to Jason Smyth's post "Looking to rent trailer or purchase</SPAN>" (<A href="http://www.cc27association.com/f3/toast/toast.asp?sub=show&action=posts&fid=2&tid=577">http://www.cc27association.com/f3/toast/toast.asp?sub=show&action=posts&fid=2&tid=577</A>). But I thought I would make it a separate post with a more relevant title.
We bought a MK III in Michigan this past spring and also considered buying a trailer to get it back, but in the end hired David Bratt of Kingston Yacht Haulage (888-389-1473; 613-389-1473). I spent a fair bit of time talking to David before contracting him, and he instilled confidence. We couldn't be there when he picked the boat up, but everything went very smoothly and the boat arrived right on schedule in fine shape. I would highly recommend David and Kingston Yacht Haulage. I believe David is the only driver, so you know with whom you'll be dealing. Cost for the ~1000 km trip to Ottawa was $2200 and there is no GST/PST on trans-border shipments. (That was also slightly less than the other quote I got.) David is down to the Toronto area regularly, and if you have some flexibility in schedule, he might be able to arrange a "haul-back" to reduce the cost. </SPAN>
David also referred us to a Customs Broker, Brent Smith of JW Smith (800-661-5840, X22; 905-542-7327; <A href="mailto:brent@jwsmith.com">brent@jwsmith.com</A>). I couldn't believe how simple it was to use a broker, and how smoothly the importation went. I'd also recommend Brent at JW Smith. Cost was $100 +GST.</SPAN>
If anyone wants any more details, they may contact me at <A href="mailto:cc27@magma.ca">cc27@magma.ca</A>.</SPAN>Hugh Morrin
Blue Zulu
MK III, #894
Nepean Sailing Club
We're in the market for some good racing sails (3-5 years old, max) for a MK III. If anybody has any that they would be interested in selling, please contact the undersigned. Also, can anybody tell us what is a reasonable price to pay for used sails? I have quotes for new sails from North, but we can't afford to replace everything in our first year.
Thanks.
Hugh Morrin,
<A href="mailto:cc27@magma.ca">cc27@magma.ca</A>
613-302-0318
Blue Zulu,
MK III, #894, Ottawa
">Thanks David & Tal! (Yup Tal, same Hugh Morrin that raced out of KYC in the late 70's, early 80's, and many regattas since. Time flies!)
Lots of good advice. As we say in aviation, "Learn from the mistakes of others; you won't live long enough to make them all yourself!" I've made lots of notes.
</SPAN>">Some readers may be interested in NSC Tech Talk articles at <A href="http://www.nsc.ca/techtalk/index.htm">0>http://www.nsc.ca/techtalk/index.htm</A>. In particular, there are two similar articles that deal with rebedding deck fittings. See <A href="http://www.nsc.ca/techtalk/rebedding_deck_fittings.htm">0>http://www.nsc.ca/techtalk/rebedding_deck_fittings.htm</A> and <A href="http://www.nsc.ca/techtalk/deck_fittings.htm">0>http://www.nsc.ca/techtalk/deck_fittings.htm</A>. While the author (a former -27 owner) appears to favour a different method than David, there are lots of good suggestions.
</SPAN>">And thanks, too, David, for posting the info and especially the photos in the Black Arts section (<A href="http://www.cc27association.com/fixes/decktracks/index.html">0>http://www.cc27association.com/fixes/decktracks/index.html</A>). More photos of hardware layout would be a really valuable addition to this site. If anyone is interested in posting more photos of how they have laid out their hardware and rigging, that would be much appreciated. Shots looking straight down, with a tape measure in view, would be particularly useful. I’ll try to contribute my part once we get our boat.
</SPAN>">Thanks again.
</SPAN>">Hugh Morrin
a>"Blue Zulu"
MK 3, #894, Nepean SC</SPAN>
We'll be taking delivery of our '81 MK 3 in a few weeks and one of the first things we'll want to do is install inboard genoa tracks. Comments on any of the following would be appreciated.
<UL>
<LI>Where should we position the track? I've seen some tracks running along the edge of the cabin, and others parallel to the gunwale and a couple of inches out from the coaming at the back, and quite a bit out from the cabin at the front. Does anybody have any dimensions, or photos? Also, should we use one track for the #1, #2 and #3 (that would mean one less slided/block) or should we do it in two sections? Pros and cons of each?</LI>
<LI>What type of track should we use? Is 1" heavy enough. or should we go to 1.25"? Any recommended supplier for the track and/or slider and block? Anybody have used equipment that they'd like to sell?</LI>
<LI>Mounting: I'm thinking of drilling 3/4" holes from below, filling with resin and re-drilling. Is that the best way? I was also thinking of using a 1" strip of 3/16' Aluminum as a backing plate. Comments?</LI>
<LI>Finally, on the inside, what do you do about the liner? Do you cut it away with a Dremel, or just bolt over top of it?</LI></UL>
Look forward to any suggestions or comments.
Hugh Morrin
"Blue Zulu"
MK 3, #894, Nepean SC
<A href="mailto:frank12345@magma.ca">frank12345@magma.ca</A> (An alias, which I can change if I get too much spam!)
613-302-0318
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Have done, will do. Hugh
We're in the market for a C&C 27 that we can use for both racing and cruising, and given the prevalent wind and "sea" conditions in Ottawa, I think we should be looking at a MK III or IV. But someone mentioned that a MK IV might not point as well as the MK III. Seems to make sense, as the centre of effort will be a few inches aft, increasing weather helm tendencies. Anyone with some experience or comments on the difference in sailing characteristics of the MK III and IV?