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David offers sound advice. Too many people, including me before I was counseled otherwise, "tickle" their throttles when, in fact, they should be putting the hammer down.
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
For what it's worth, I installed the Indigo fixed three-blader and it's not only super in reverse but also significantly reduces propwalk that was inherent in the fixed two-blader. Dunno what it does for my speed and even though there's undeniably a penalty, the boat still moves to my cruising satisfaction. I prefer to break (race) other folks' boats!
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
Suggest you check out "propellors" etc. in the Black Arts section.
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
No primer required. I just cleaned everything with Vim Bath & Kitchen cleaner, which contains a really mild abrasive (I think diatoms) and then wiped down with acetone.
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
For what this is worth, it doesn't look like any C&C 27 original installation I've ever seen in Marks I, II, II or IV, Atomics or diesel.
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
I highly recommend Interlux Brightside Polyurethane. I rolled and tipped my main cabin this summer, going from the original off-white, which no amount of cleaning could restore, to a warm light cream which I arrived at by mixing two colours. I used two quarts and am very satisfied. As a single-part polyurethane, it doesn't require mixing and there are no runs or brush marks. It took me a day or surface preparation, filling little dings, etc., taping ports, removing cushions and various fixtures and a couple of hours the following day to paint.
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
I can't suggest a fix for your electrical problem, but I highly recommend the acquisition of a hand-crank; they can be purchased from Moyer Marine. Good luck.
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
An important thing to remember is that regardless of which fibre you choose, changing to all-rope halyards preferably also should involve new masthead sheaves. The original aluminum sheaves have a groove-within-a-groove profile designed to handle wire and rope and could present a wear problem for all-rope halyards. I replaced my three sheaves this year with custom-made (Delrin with brass inserts) units from the Sheave Factory (http://www.zephyrwerks.com), a small shop north of Seattle. They carry a regular small display ad in Good Old Boat. Communication was excellent and the cost was about $105, cheap for peace of mind not to mention halyard life.
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
Hi John. Please encourage whomever shows an interest to consider subscribing to Practical Sailor; those photocopies were simply a courtesy to you, not, please, an invitation to distribute them willy-nilly. I have subscribed since the early 1970s and find it a fount of useful information. It's not cheap but the publishers are not hostage to companies, i.e. no advertising. Subscribers also have Internet access to indexed articles, etc.
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
Further to our conversation, photocopies of three PS articles in the mail tomorrow (06 Jan.) Good luck with Bruce and/or Phil.
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
Most of us, understandably, tend to defend our choices and since I have a Harken headsail furler, I think it's great. However, Practical Sailor offers a more objective view in its September 2009 issue. While it recommends the Harken MkIV (Torlon and Delrin ball bearings) among the head-swivel models, it also recommends the US Spars Z-Spar Z-780 (stanless steel bearings) which is about half the price - $960 v $1,918 but a 2-year warranty v. the Harken's 7-year warranty. Among the units without a head swivel, the Alado A2 at $915 (bushings rather than ball bearings) was top choice due to relative ease of installation. All that being said, ,"when it comes to all-weather easy furling, the units with efficient ball bearings won out, and the Selden Furlex remains our pick for best choice. . . ." A dock walk at Nepean Sailing Club shows Harken, Cruising Design, Hood and Furlex units among our more than two dozen 27s, but a friend has an Alado on his 27 and loves it. Be happy to mail/fax you a copy of the PS article unless you have a local source. Cheers.
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
I think that any large plumbing supply shop should be able to equip you with a downsizing pipe converter once you've explained what you want. I can't see backpressure being an issue in a setup like this. Cheers.
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
Dunno your location but if you're in Ontario, Genco Marine in Toronto is my suggestion. Heck, they're worth a try even if you're not in Ontario!
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
[Dana is one of the few who has taken advantage of the Homeport category in his profile (he's in Marblehead), which comes into its own in questions like this, when people can give more targeted advice by knowing where you are (and it's not surprising that Ken didn't look for it -- most entries are blank). If you ask a question like Dana's, make sure your location is available either in your profile or your signature file. (And just to weigh in with a bit of additional advice - Genco quality is very good and they really know C&C's, but there may be less expensive suppliers in the US. - Admin]
I found the vinyl-coated spiral-wound wire at a local fabric/drapery store. I think I have enough left over to do your main cabin portlights (I think 24 feet, i.e. six feet top and bottom on each side). If you can't track the stuff down in your area, let me know and I'll send you my leftovers.
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
A rough measurement (in the dark last night) suggests you add 4.5 feet (waterline to mast step) to detemine your overall height.
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
1. Design elements? Opt for maximum window area.
2. Supplier? We all tend to defend our choices, but I can only say that I found Genco's product, price (half my local guy's quote) and delivery time(a couple of weeks rather than months) exceptional. Santiva's in their dodger album.
3. Handrail? In hindsight, one on either side of the main uprights as well as one across the top might be desirable -- depends on your surefootedness, etc.
4. Lexan option? I gather it's easier to scratch than the standard Acrylic but have no personal experience.
6. If you mean the one that extends back at an angle from the upper portion of the main bow, I'd say yes. I plan to add one.
5. Other thoughts? I plan to have them make a new bimini and "gap closer" this winter. Good luck with whomever you choose.
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
Bad info in my previous posting. The other 27 sports a Flex-O-Fold, not a Gori. Apologies.
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
A wee clarification: I have an Indigo, not a Gori. Have friends who race with a Gori and do really well. Mind you, I've seen them practically lick their bottom (the boat's, that is!) between races.
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
Since my only prior experience was with the factory two-blader, I can only say that I haven't noticed an appreciable difference, including when accelerating out of a tack. Hydrodynamically, there's certain to be a loss when compared with a folder or featherer <img src="emoticons/icon_question.gif"> but those are obviously more expensive and have their own issues, such as weeds, etc. If I was a racer (I prefer to do that on other folks' boats), I'd probably go Gori or somesuch.
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
We all have a tendency to justify our decisions but I can honestly say I'm extremely happy with my Indigo 10x7.4 fixed three-blader designed specifically for the A-4. You might want to check out the "propellor" section in "Black Arts", but I chose the Indigo at the suggestion of a friend who has a Mark III. Propwalk from the original two-blader was horrendous; it's now negligible and the boat stops dead in its tracks when I put her in reverse. You can find the prop at Indigo Electronics; I paid for mine by Visa and had it within a week. Designer has been extremely helpful and I've since purchased several of his A-4 add-ons. Good luck.
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
Drilling and tapping should be more than enough. I opted for an internal outhaul; see Black Arts section. Cheers.
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
Check out <a href="http://www.lonsealspecialty.com">http://www.lonsealspecialty.com</a>. A number of us pooled our resources and bought a roll, enough to do seven boats (mostly C&C 27s). I haven't installed mine yet (some messy interior glasswork to do) but those who have really like it. It looks great and the big advantage is that you don't lose any appreciable headroom.
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
The only thing I would add to the other responses is that when the engine is clear of its mounts, it will have a tendency to kick forward a few inches simply because of the angles involved. If not controlled, which is easy, that could damage some cabinetry. Other than that, my experience from extracting my A-4 for a rebuild two years ago is that it's not particularly challenging. Good luck.
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
I purchased a Tempo 4" to 27" tank depth electric fuel sender from Canadian Tire. Works like a charm. I think these things are pretty generic. I left the original gauge in place even though the unit came with a new gauge, which I plan to swap in when I finish my rewiring job next spring. Good luck.
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
Welcome to the light side, Jim. You'll find a wealth of information if you search for "prop" in this forum. Most of the first page is irrelevant but the second and subsequent pages contain a wealth of experience/suggestions about propellors. It boils down to what you're doing with the boat: die-hard races prefer feathering or folding props whereas cruisers like me (I race other folks' boats) stick with fixed-blade models (I have the Indigo prop which is specifically designed for A-4s but if you have a diesel there are other options). Good luck and don't spare the questions; that's what this space is for.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa