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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/penguinfun/3543665735/">http://www.flickr.com/photos/penguinfun/3543665735/</a>
Wichard calls the product "webbing eye strap".
All good thoughts. What I had ended up doing was trimming the aft end of the lower box cover so I could remove it with the battery in place. It is easy now to reach in and release the battery cables, then slide the lower battery out. I also replaced the screwed-in plastic strap attachment points with a stainless-steel Wichard bolt-on model, and replaced the straps with a more skookum type. I also reinforced the battery shelves.
Todd: Sorry - confused you by bringing up that eye bolt. It is a different part of the pump. I meant that I had been able to refurbish my Gusher 10, except for that eye bolt. If a guy had the right tools and a source for a piece of aluminum, it would be farily easy to fabricate a new plate, I think.
Iris: Thanks for the tip on the bolt. I'll take a look at that option again.
The exploded parts drawing for a Gusher 10 is here <a href="http://www.whalepumps.com/marine/product_list/7/49/">http://www.whalepumps.com/marine/product_list/7/49/</a>
I had new windows cut of 1/8 plexiglass, carefully cleaned out the aluminum frames and flanges, and bought the foam and gasket kit.
1. On trialling 3" of the foam and gasket to get a feel before installing, the gasket seems to go in easier than I expected. I am working indoors, so the temperatures are very comfortable, but still, should the plexi be thick enough that gasket installation takes a little work with a wooden push tool after heating in water? I did not need all that for this short test section. The new plexi windows seem to be a hair thinner than the originals. If so, then I may have to find thcker foam to push back on the inside against the gasket on the outside.
2. The instructions say to stick the foam strip to the window after putting a thin film of silicone on the flange. But
2a. I don't like silicon.
2b. The Black Arts article says to stick the foam to the window.
Does it matter?
Thanks.
Sorry, I refurbished mine, except still waiting for that special eye bolt to arrive.
Marcus, thanks for the tip. A supplier found me some yesterday at a Dartmouth source, but I will follow up on your lead too.
I have just finished rewiring the engine and am fitting the new FWC system hoses, rebuilt exhaust, revised fuel distribution, etc. Getting in and out of the lockers over the past year of this refit has actually fixed my back pain!
I am searching for the right 1-5/8" ID hose to connect the stuffing box to the stern tube on our C&C 27. Non-wire, appropriate 4 or 5 ply rubber hose. The shaft is 7/8". Any suggestions for a source? Been looking through suppliers all winter, but that ID hose is very rare. Thanks.
I made Plexiglas plates (had some scrap) for inside and out, cut 2" holes in their centers, painted them with white Krylon, made a donut from a third piece of plexiglas to act as a spacer, and sealed the lot with the sounder display unit's locknut, using 1/16" butyl tape to seal out the weather.
I have to decide whether to shim my old 7/8" stanchions to fit the new 1" stanchion bases, or simply upgrade to new 1" stanchions. One of the factors in the decision is that stanchion-mounted fairleads and blocks for the roller furling line and other hardware that might attach to the stanchions only appear to only come in 1" models these days. Is 7/8' rigging hardware really this hard to find?
Last summer I lifted the mast off the boat, which was on its trailer after getting it home from purchase, I used 4 people and it was easy. Two on the boat, one at each end with a long rope tied to the mast, and two below to guide it off the boat to the ground to avoid damage, and then carry it away. The spreaders and lifelines were the main hassle. Two people can carry the mast -- watch the backs.
I never was able to find a replacement flush flange throughull of the right dimensions. Those old ones were beautiful and nicely installed: wish I could have got them out intact too. I ended up having to grind out and rebuild the hull flush, and then mount a standard protruding flange throughull.
Excellent infromation, David, thanks.
The batteries in this boat are in the "beside engine" location, and I decided to leave them there. I need to come up with a better battery box solution. Currently, they are in standard plastic boxes that take up too much space, make cable attachment awkward, and require disassembly with tools to check the lower battery, since the lid does not come off without removing the top battery's shelf: <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/penguinfun/3375424534/">http://www.flickr.com/photos/penguinfun/3375424534/</a>. I am thinking of building custom plywood/epoxy boxes using the guidelines in Calder's and Wing's books. Does anyone have suggestions for the design? Thanks.
The hull barrier job was up there on the DIY challenge scale. If I was to do it again, I'd consider hiring someone familiar with it.
I don't know if it was just me, but I ended up using only two gallons - about half a gallon per coating. Fortunately managed to sell the unused two. Also, I used the wrong roller and ended up with slight stippling after putting on the two coats of Micron CSC. I had done what I thought was a lot of research on the right roller to use, but I guess not enough. I test sanded a patch and can get the hull smooth without disturbing the 4th coat of Interprotect. Maybe check directlky with Interlux on the right roller.
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"New" 1974 C&C 27 Mk II undergoing refit
Where did you get the stainless rails? Did you mount the inside rails separately?
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"New" 1974 C&C 27 Mk II undergoing refit
Got the second and third coats of Interprotect on the hull today. In the morning I finally get to put down the last coat of Interprotect and the first coat of bottom paint. Phew. Big milestone in this project.
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"New" 1974 C&C 27 Mk II undergoing refit
Marcus, thanks for the detail. I chatted tonight with my colleague who is working on this with me, and decided to get the machinist to make the modifications. They'll be solid and secure.
I can't put a socket on the deck seam nuts, but it's easy to slide on a box wrench, although there are a pile of nuts to do that way, of course.
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"New" 1974 C&C 27 Mk II undergoing refit
I sent SSY my photos of the Type C base on our toerail and had good phone dicussions with them. Those are the type they recommend. Marcus, to fit the Type C bases, did you drill two extra vertical holes in the toe rails per base, and drill those holes on an angle so the bolts will accept a nut on the inside?
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"New" 1974 C&C 27 Mk II undergoing refit
Depends on use: weekend daytripping versus cruising. There are several good choices now for electric self-steering systems for boats our size. Electrcial automatic steering is convenient and fairly easy to set up, just watch the electrical budget carefully. They can drain batteries if they work hard. Great for taking short breaks during a long day sail though, and on a small sailboat with limited battery weight, that's a good use of them.
Our boat has an old Autohelm on a pedestal wheel. I haven't used it myself yet on this boat, (still refitting), but it is fused for 15 amps, and I expect it draws 1-5 or more amps in use, probably averaging 3-4 amps, transiently jumping when stressed, but that's just wild guessing, based on googling. Our boat had two group 24 batteries, and I am dedicating one to house, which will supply the Autohelm. At 4 amps, I can't expect more than a few hours of draw from a steadily working autohelm with close attention to sail trim to reduce its workload, even using batteries with dual engine start/deep cycle capability. The battery shelves might support Group 27 batteries, but they are heavier and don't add a lot more reserve time at that amperage. I don't want to use a pair Trojan 6 volt batteries for the house bank because I want to keep things simple for my type of sailing, I want two batteries the same, and I want to minimize battery weight and space. I could use a pair of deep cycle 12 volt batteries, one for engine and one for house, because the Atomic 4 does not need much current to start, but they tend to be larger and heavier than standard Canadian Tire Nautilus group 24 or 27 batteries.
So, I can't expect to sail day and night on the Autohelm, only running the engine a couple of times of day for an hour. Instead, I'll have to expect to hand steer most of the time, reserving the Autohelm for short periods to rest, trim sails, check navigation, get lunch and visit the head.
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"New" 1974 C&C 27 Mk II undergoing refit
Agreed: sounds like to many things to go wrong with that idea, including feeding the wires while stepping the mast, and compromising the strength of the tabernacle and the deck built to support the mast under the tabernacle. A wise old boater once warned me to think several times before deciding to make a modification not done by the original designers/builders.
The idea of a through-hull at the traditional wire-though-deck position on the C&C 27 is growing on me: it uses the original position intended by the designers for that purpose.
The stainless gooseneck has a venerable tradition but bothers me: creates a great hook for catching stray lines.
I found a company making a stainless steel, low profile box built like a dorade - the Cableport. It has several neat features: nothing to catch lines, stainless cover to keep the weather out, can be stepped on. Haven't found a Canadian source to price it, though. <a href="http://www.steinie.co.za/cableport/">http://www.steinie.co.za/cableport/</a> Australian $139: <a href="http://www.electricboatparts.com.au/">http://www.electricboatparts.com.au/</a>
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"New" 1974 C&C 27 Mk II undergoing refit
Another elegant idea: Simply install a 1" throughull in the deck, attach a piece of 1" hose, and after running the wires through in spring, stick the hose into a hole in the mast when stepped and seal it for the summer with silicone. <a href="http://www.triton381.com/projects/restoration/maststepping.htm">http://www.triton381.com/projects/restoration/maststepping.htm</a>
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"New" 1974 C&C 27 Mk II undergoing refit
Marcus, that's brilliant. I googled and found this image:
<a href="http://www.corbin39.com/qanda/mastholddown.jpg">http://www.corbin39.com/qanda/mastholddown.jpg</a>
I'm going to give that serious thought.
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"New" 1974 C&C 27 Mk II undergoing refit
David wrote, "Well, that's new to me..".
That got me worrying. I visited a friend's Mark III today. He has the toerail bases you mentioned, with the third leg that bolts to the deck. I can see how that model of base gets closer to the toerail than the Type C base, owing to the accomodating slant in the slot in the base. I'll call the supplier again tomorrow to review.
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"New" 1974 C&C 27 Mk II undergoing refit
Is there a Canadian source? What did it cost? Want to consider sharing for the price of shipping and a fee?
http://www.strutpro.com/
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"New" 1974 C&C 27 Mk II undergoing refit
I think I am going to install a Newmar Thru-Dex DX cable gland to deal with the mast wiring through the deck.
<a href="http://www.newmarpower.com/Antenna_Cable_Accessories/Antenna-Cable_Accessories2.html">http://www.newmarpower.com/Antenna_Cable_Accessories/Antenna-Cable_Accessories2.html</a>
The idea is to feed all the electrical wires and VHF antenna cable through the rubber gland inside the casing to terminate the wires inside the cabin. To dismast, disconnect the wires inside the cabin, unscrew the casing of the gland, and pull the wires and VHF cable connector up through the 1" or greater hole in the deck, with the rubber gland still firmly gripping the wires. The big advantage is not having the connections made outside in the weather.
Has anyone used this cable gland on a C&C27? There is insufficient room in the cabin under the mast step in that little 1" space to connect all the wires and VHF cable, so I would have to build a slightly larger box for that, to hide the connections. Or run the wires down to connect out of the way.
On the weekend, I am going to take a look at a friend's C&C that has been wired with one of these glands, but though I would ask here too.
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"New" 1974 C&C 27 Mk II undergoing refit