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Would someone be good enough to explain the best or easiest way to remove the Main Sheet traveller (Track)on my C&C27 MarkIII. The one I have now is shot and I would like to replace the track.
Thanks Dave
[Moving and replacement of travellers is now covered in Black Arts. - Admin]
Last edited by (2005-08-02 03:12:27)
My Mklll has the main sheet traveller on the bridge deck and when I went to change to a new adjustable traveller system I could not budge a single fastener. Also if you look carefully using a mirror you will find that it may be damn near impossible to get to the bottom side of the fasteners under the deck.... The solution that I came up with works well and is as strong as it gets. Simply lay a new traveller over the old one... position it so you can drill and tap into the old one without hitting a fastener on the old one and bolt the new one down, I also used a bit of locktite to secure the bolts..... I have had this arrangement for 8 years without a problem.... I also put the cam cleats and pulleys on the vertical sides of the cockpit... This arrangement gives me the full use of the traveller, which when used with a vang gives you great control especially on a reach.
"IRIS"
C&C 27 Mklll
Kittery Point, Maine
"Iris" is right about using a mirror to look at the underside of the bridgedeck and see the nuts that hold the track in place, but I didn't find the same difficulty in removing them. I had a helper hold a socket wrench with a long extension on the nut while I turned the screw from above. It was fussy work but not particularly difficult. Similarly, replacing the track (which I did on the same holes, as hole spacing is standardized) was fussy but not difficult. My then pre-teen daughter and I did the whole job in a little over an hour.
I'd be reluctant to mount one track on another as the second would stand above the bridge deck level, making the seats even more uncomfortable and creating a tripping hazard for people coming out of the companion. If the screws were that difficult to remove, I'd either heat the screw briefly to soften the surrounding bedding compound or drill its head out. Failing that, I'd rent a grinder and cut into the side of the track and through the machine screws (the old track is quite soft, which is why it gets so beat up).
I replaced my old rig with a Harken traveller, which fits nicely in the recess and moves easily under any load. Like "Iris", I ran the crosshauls up the cockpit sides so the traveller can be played by the helm in gusts. This is a continuous line and runs through auto-ratchet blocks, so if the weather crosshaul is accidentally released under load, the car cannot bang down to leeward and hurt someone.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Last edited by (2004-05-06 01:08:52)
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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I followed the same procedure as "Iris", after looking at the seemingly daunting task of removing the original track on my Mark 111, Aragorn.
We found that we easily adapted to entering and leaving the companionway with ease over the 'new', higher traveller without any trip-ups --- The lower edge of the companionway door is considerably higher than the bridgedeck and about 7-8 inches forward so the 1" teak board that I had contemplated installing on top of the bridgedeck between the traveller and the companionway entrace as a'filler', proved NOT to be needed . If you follow this route, I think you'll find that you simply adapt to stepping up (or across) that extra 3/4" as you enter and exit.
<U>SAIL FOR SALE </U>_
#2 Genoa for 27' Mk.111 by North Sails . Tri-radial cut, Norlam fabric, built 1998-- good shape . Window, tell-tales and draught stripe. Stitching etc. checked ;2001/2002 . #6 Luff tape .
Replacement Genoa is on order for 2004 racing season but there's some cruising years left in this one -$ 550 asking price. phone 613 498-2029 or e-mail <A href="mailto:bosco@ripnet.com">bosco@ripnet.com</A> <img src="emoticons/icon_frown.gif">Brockville)
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