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Great! The C^C 27s are wonderful boats!
It is always a wise decision to have a pre-purchase survey done just to know for the peace of mind knowing what you are actually purchasing. A Mk I is at least 50 years old. Also ask for invoices from prior work.
Chad - I see you also posted in another thread about replacing a compression post. The OP in the thread had a good procedure.
Yes, it would be a good idea to take the mast down to relieve any compression pressure from the mast. But I don't think it would be necessary to remove the rail for the sliding door. In my 1973 MkII that is a solid wood piece and assuming you take the sliding door off to get it out of the way, it wouldn't be a problem.
Let us know how you do.
The Mk V brochure states 16 gal., but that isn't exactly what you are looking for.
Our Mk II has a similar configuration to yours, but the manual doesn't state the capacity. The original tank was a fabric bladder which some PO had abandoned without removing after the contents hardened. They then converted the only water tank under the V-berth into a holding tank! The water tank/holding tank has been cleaned out, and is now used for storage.
We replaced everything with a composting head.
When we were repairing the decks, cabintop and cockpit, we removed the old instruments and nicely fiberglassed in the old holes before painting. We now have a 9" GPS screen mounted in the cockpit bulkhead, which is a personal preference. Keeps things uncluttered.
The steaming light on our 1973 C&C 27 Mk II is definitely an aftermarket light, although I couldn't tell you the manufacturer. There are no foredeck light or spreader lights.
RedSurge - the baklite fitting was also missing on our boat, and I purchases an aftermarket slide stop with a thumb screw that held it in place. But the downward pressure of the sail slide when the sail was furled caused the slide to slip out and lost overboard. More than once.
I then used a pencil rubbing to trace the gap in the mast sail slide, including the exact location of the threaded screw. Cut several plastic sail slide stops out of a plastic sheet, and drilled the hole for the screw. No problems since then. Still need a screwdriver to remove the sail slide stop, but at least the stops are going overboard.
jmlyness - Start checking in your area for used sailboats parts. We have a person in Wisconsin who has been salvaging sailboats, and I know he has some masts. I needed the long connector (NLA) for a Harken roller furling system, and was able to purchase a complete used roller furling unit from him. Had to by the whole system, but at least I got the part. And a lot of spare Harken parts!
PM me for his contact information. If he can't help you, he may know of other sailboat salvagers in your area. Otherwise start calling around to various yards.
Good luck!
Anthony,
That s an aluminum fuel tank. You can see the welds the photo you posted. Aluminum tanks are a good. I still have the original Monel tank in our boat.
Was Wayne Bergraff's the original owner of your boat?
BTW, I previously posted in this thread, and completely missed your post. Nice to see another Bayfield address on the forum.
FairWinds - While this reply won't address your specific questions, it is a general comment about wheel vs tiller. I've always preferred a wheel when I was sailing on OPBs (other people's boats), but several years ago my wife and I decided we'd enjoy getting our own boat. We live where we sail, so we can pick and choose our weather. We ended up purchasing a 1973 C&C 27 Mk II with a tiller.
Advantages:
1. The tiller takes up less space in the cockpit. No wheel to step around to get to the helm. More room in the cockpit, while at the dock or at anchor. I believe when they went to the Mk II, they added 10 1/2" to the LOA to make a bigger cockpit to accommodate the wheel and pedestal. But they didn't go to a "T" cockpit.
2. The tiller on my Mk II is on a rudderpost in the cockpit, making the boat is much more maneuverable, as the rudder will rotate 360 degrees. We have the furthest-in slip at our yacht club, and the fairway gets rather narrow, with a bulkhead to run into if I overshoot the slip. But with the tiller setup on the Mk II, the tiller can be rotated 180 degrees to back out of the slip so the water flow is across the leading edge of the tiller, and it is very easy to turn around once the fairway widens. I would not be able to be in the slip we have if our boat had a wheel - not enough travel stop to stop. But I understand this point is likely mute on the Mk V, which I believe has a transom mounted rudder.
3. And there is always the argument that a tiller is more sensitive than a wheel, but I've never found that to be an issue.
Good luck with your decision, if you haven't made it already.
Pablo, no, nothing has come through. I also check my spam and trash folders, and nothing there.
Here's an additional email address: lakesuperiorcaptain@gmail.com
Thanks!
Phil
Pablo,
This is an inquiry regarding your April post for C&C 27 manuals. I' appreciate one for my 1973 Mk II.
I'm replacing the forestay, and took the 7/32" measurement out of the Mk IV owner's manual, but failed to actually mic the existing forestay being replaced. Turns out it is 1/4", but the other standing rigging is 7/32". Discovered that after I had the 7/32" cut to length. ?
Tried emailing to the email address you posted, but it was returned as not found.
Thanks!
It has been a few years since we replaced the windows, but looking at some photos, the interior aluminum frames are held in place with nuts. When the nuts are removed, the interior aluminum frame can also be removed. Then the plexiglass is removed from the inside.
Good luck!
Did you review the Black Arts post about replacing the windows? My recollection is that I only removed the interior aluminum frame, and that no rivets were involved.
Any depression at the base of the mast on deck? Use a straight edge to check.
Or at the base of the mast support in the cabin?
Pablo - Thanks! I was able to download it from your dropbox.
Harken had the connectors I needed, and am just waiting for the Sta-Loc fitting to arrive.
There are at least two other C&C 27 Mk III that are being worked on around here, plus a good number of other C&Cs out of the 70s and 80s.
Looking for a manual on the early Harken Mark I roller furling system. The bottom foil connector is bent, and I'd like to go through the whole system. All other parts are in good condition.
Unfortunately, Harken no longer supports this 40 year old system. :-) But they had the connectors.
Many thanks!
Thanks to all who originally got this site up and running, and to those who are now keeping it going! I first came across it in 2017 when we purchased a C&C 27, and found a wealth of information. This past spring I saw the post that the site would be coming down, and followed the advice to download the site onto my hard drive so I'd still have access to all the good information.
I clicked on an old bookmark to the site this morning, and was delighted to see it still here. My membership dues will be going out in today's mail.
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