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From my limited experience, it should be fine, if we have the same definition of "quite a bit". To me that would be "if you ask your wife if she can see it she says yes".
Are the cradle supports in the wrong place? They should be lined up with a bulkhead in the boat. Typically against the bulkhead separating the head and the salon, and not lined up with center of the closet and the wall behind the head.
If you use a spinnaker pole on a boat this size, for sure you'd want to rig up something VERY hefty for lateral support. The geometry of this boat means that the shrouds don't tighten at all until the mast is pretty much erect, so it would surely collapse sideways if you tried to lift it without.
The a frame lies flat on the boat, so I often just leave it there. But it undoes at the base with a pair of pins and can be removed for storage. But I often leave them there because some of my longer trips involve a few mast raises and drops...
Yes, about a year ago. I sent them the plans from the Tanzer 26 and a tracing of the mast base, and they did the rest.
If I sell my boat and the new owner doesn't want the kit, I might be able to sell it separately. But that's a few if's.
Yes, I had one made up by Klacko spars.
Here is my mast raising kit at work. I have since added an electric winch, but in these images a friend is grinding away...
http://www.boicey.com/sailboats/mastraising.jsp
Oooops, I should leave an email.
My email address is tboicey at brit dot ca.
I never thought I'd say this... but if somebody would be interested in a quick purchase of a 1973 MkI, there might be a reason to pass it on.
My family and I are sailing this winter in the Bahamas on a different, larger boat, and my wife is convinced that when we get used to this 36 footer, we will not have any interest in our 27 footer when we return.
Normally the logical mind in me would argue, but the selfish mind sees this as a way to possibly get a bigger boat with wife approval. If the 27 is gone when we return, we pretty much have to buy a boat for the summer so it's wife pre-approved.
I don't have a proper writeup for it, but quickly it's a:
<UL>
<LI>C&C 27 Mk I</LI>
<LI>Blue Hull</LI>
<LI>Atomic IV engine, runs strongly, recent service</LI>
<LI>Wheel steering</LI>
<LI>Mast raising kit, one person can raise and lower the mast using the included electric winch</LI>
<LI>Brand new cushions, slept on three times, sat on maybe 10 times.</LI>
<LI>highway trailer (optional)</LI>
<LI>Decent mainsail (North Sails)</LI>
<LI>Excellent smaller jib (North Sails, 110%?)</LI>
<LI>Usable but worn large genoa (170%)</LI>
<LI>Like new North Sails DRS. (optional)</LI></UL>
Basically I bought it from John on this list in the spring, and dropped about $4500 more into it this summer, and used it a fair amount. Was not expecting at all to be offering for sale, but if something works out...
Any interest? Located in Ottawa, Canada. Showable.
I think you are right, a lot of water came from there on mine as well.
The other place I found a lot of water was in the water pump. It was recommended in this thread and quite a lot of water poured out even after I had drained all of the other plugs.
There are at least two kinds of RV antifreeze out there...
I bought a 4L jug at home depot that says "plastic pipes only". Then I bought a 16L jug at Canadian Tire that says "for plastic and metal pipes".
The latter was cheaper, but probably just because of the volume discount.
I think the latter also smelled different and stronger.
I have finished this job now. Seemed pretty straightforward, the only struggles were the usual "dealing with thick pipe at freezing temperatures that need to bend around corners".
I have some notes and pictures, I could type this up for the black arts if anybody cares...
[Seems like a reasonable offer. Please use the Fleet mailing address. - Admin]
Hello John. (the previous owner of this boat)
Yah, I had wondered about that. Even though the boat cannot possibly send sewage overboard, and the Y-valve does something else, it might look fishy if somebody was doing a quick inspect.
Maybe they'll feel better if the lock it even if they don't understand what they are doing, the Y valve is lockable.
Oh well, we'll see. I'm still acquiring the parts. Working on the DC a lot lately and that might keep me busy...
Actually I wasn't all that clear.
I expect to put the switch in the lower cabinet, with the tees and such to get the fresh water in. The system could actually be done there, but has no anti siphon protection.
So then I would add a loop in the cabinet just under the window, with a vacuum breaker. This would plumb in to the line that is currently just the white plastic line about 18 inches long joining the pump to the back of the bowl.
Yep that's actually where I hope to put the loop as well.
Just not sure it's the recommended eight inches above waterline at maximum heel. It seems to be at deck level, and the rail is sometimes at the waterline when heeled hard....
Thanks for the help.
From another session in the boat, it appears that the sensible thing to do is mount the Y valve under the sink, right beside the existing flush water pipe.
Then, I can remove the short pipe that goes from the pump to the back of the toilet, and route it under the sink and up under the cabinet for a loop and a vacuum breaker.
That might not be QUITE 8 inches above waterline at full heel, but I'm not so worried about that case... if there is a seal failure and it starts bringing in lake water at full heel, I'll be on the boat. I don't expect a leaking seal to sink the boat faster than I can figure out the source and turn to windward...
More parts to order!
Ok, I have obtained a suitable Y valve and am just about to add a fresh water intake from the sink seacock to the water inlet. There are a few chats in the archives here that talk loosely about the procedure....
I pretty much plan to just install it all in the back of the cabinet under the sink.
Are there any gotchas I should be concerned about?
I am wondering if there should be a new vented loop above the water line with a vacuum breaker... the traditional diagrams I seem to find on the net have an above-water-line loop with a vacuum breaker after the pump but before the bowl... so the whole lake can't be siphoned into the toilet bowl...
I'm not in the boat right now to verify, but I'm not sure if the original flush water hose has a loop or a vacuum breaker at all.
Last minute advice?
Cheers.
At the risk of trivializing it... it's really not that big of a deal to unstep a mast... and your rig should work.
Usual caveats apply...
- Make sure where the sling goes around the spreaders cannot slip up... some boats have folding or spindly spreaders...
- Make sure everything is disconnected before hauling away. Check again. ;>
- Make sure to control the mast at all times, make sure it stays bottom-down until you are lying it flat.
Not much really. It's a bit more work to put it back on, so many lines to make sure they don't tangle or aren't raised intertwined... but straightforward if you are careful...
Old thread but....
I just winterized my Atomic IV for the first time, and only found three drain plugs. I have a vague recollection of putting in four in the spring.
I found:
- One in the bottom of the water pump
- One at the back of the manifold
- One on the block just forward of the alternator
...is there another?
Although I haven't actually done this yet, one solution to that problem is to use a foot pump... hands free like electric, but easy on the water...
It's on my TODO list...
Thanks for the tips. I may have to wait until next year...
From an earlier piece of advice, I cleaned the wasps nest out of the end and forced a bit of water in with a water hose pressed against the vent.
Since then I haven't had any odour, although the head also hasn't been used and the weather has been cooler...
So I may have to wait until next year... I also plan on switching the flushwater from recirculation to fresh water, so I might find other nasties along the way.
(The boat is a MkI with the Prototank recirculating system...)
When I return to the boat weekend to weekend, there is a strong head smell in the cabin. With a bit of tank deodorant, a lot of flushing, and opening all the hatches... it more or less disappears and the boat is usable.
However, I noticed that there is no odour detectable at the outlet of the head vent on the side of the hull.
Could I assume the vent line is blocked and this is possibly a factor?
Is it safe to "rod out" the vent line with a coat hanger or similar?
Cheers.
["Cheers" suggests "Down the hatch", which suggests other remedial measures involving suction. I'm staying out of this discussion. - Admin]
My MkI came with roller furling, a Hood brand system.
It seems in good shape, but the furling line seems to jam often, and it happens both in rolling in and out.
If it matters, I am using a fresh length of 1/4" nylon as the furling line.
One thing that also seems out of whack, the little spool that has the gate in it for the rope to enter rotates freely, so sometimes when it jams the opening is pointing away from the boat, and there might be a turn or so of furling line wrapped around the exposed forestay.
Any general tips?
My install ended up more or less combining those two.
I chose the Rule 750 because it was the biggest one that had a 3/4" discharge hole and I figured it would have less drainback than the 1" hose that the rule 1000 has. (although the rule 1000 will also fit, it's no bigger)
I ran the hose under the engine, then up quickly to reduce the drainback length, then through a check valve and into a Tee fitting to share the same thru-hull as the manual pump.
The manual pump hose doesn't need a check valve as the pump has two in it, but I routed the last foot of the manual pump hose down into the tee so that gravity drains the electric pump out the thru hull and the check valve and manual pump hose probably stays dry the entire time anyways.
I attach this pump to the crank battery, directly on the battery so it's not able to be switched off. I chose the crank battery as it's normally fully charged, the house battery isn't always.
I may add a second system later, totally independent including a new thru-hull and running off of the other battery. But so far I think this is sufficient for where I am and how long I am away from the boat...
It all seems to work. I might later add a second pump fully independent, on the other battery and with a new thru-hull, but right now this seems sufficient.
Does anyone still have the manual for the PAR PROTOTANK?
I am looking for the exact preloading procedure. From the above posts it seems to be "2 gallons of water and chemicals" but would like to know the ratios, specifications, etc.
Cheers.
I had to add the mast step, but it was relatively easy to acquire.
Klacko Spars did all the fabrication from those drawings of the Tanzer kit. I made a few important modifications with an angle grinder after it arrived (the angle on the hinge pieces was wrong in the drawings, or at least ambiguous)
I sent them my mast step and they sent it back with the hinge installed, not sure if they made it on the spot or it was a stock item for that spar cross section.
The one modification still to do is to add a brake winch for lowering the mast. It could obviously be done the "standard" way with the boat winch, but I'd prefer to have more control during descent and to be able to do it with less hands. I am actually strongly considering a power winch, but the current unknown is where it could be attached securely on the boat and be out of the way or removable.
I was finally able to get the stick up on my 1972 MkI without having an available crane.
The following are some images of the kit and it's use. It's fairly straightforward and I can supply more details if needed.
http://www.brit.ca/~tboicey/sailboats/mastraising.jsp
Thanks again for the tip, Ken.
The new cushions arrived on the weekend from Ken a Baldeson (Balderston I think) and they look really nice.
Cheers.