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I have a spinnaker from my Mk I. It is in good condition. Am located at National Yacht Club. Greg
Greg Tokarz, Nepenthe, C&C 27 Mk1, Hull #73
I have a solid, relatively new cradle for sale. The cradle was built for a Mk 1, but would be suitable for any 27.
Contact me at: greg dot tokarz at sympatico.ca
Greg Tokarz, Nepenthe, C&C 27 Mk1, Hull #73
Just an update. The cradle will be stored for the winter as of Thurs. end of day (Oct 21) so if you are interested call me ASAP.
Greg Tokarz, Nepenthe, C&C 27 Mk1, Hull #73
Nearly new cradle for Mk I. Should fit I - IV. Oversized pads. Great cradle. I am in Toronto and can get to you in the GTA. If interested contact me at greg dot tokarz at sympatico.ca
Greg Tokarz, Nepenthe, C&C 27 Mk1, Hull #73
Where are you located?
Greg Tokarz, Nepenthe, C&C 27 Mk1, Hull #73
Ivan.
How much were the SS handrails?
Greg Tokarz, Nepenthe, C&C 27 Mk1, Hull #73
What about Mac users. My first attempt at accessing these sites indicates they do not support Mac.
Greg Tokarz, Nepenthe, C&C 27 Mk1, Hull #73
Dave.
If you you want a shifter assembly, I'm planning to remove mine. The previous owner installed a wheel with shifter and throttle and left the original in place. One of my winter projects is to refresh the instruments and while in there, take out the old shifter. Let me know if you want it.
Greg
Greg Tokarz, Nepenthe, C&C 27 Mk1, Hull #73
I have considered purchasing a stanless steel mast base that I have seen at some marine suppliers. It is as described above. Basically, it is a flat SS plate with a lip on each side with holes to attach the blocks. I now can't find a supplier that has one on their website. It is close to the one shown here <a href="http://islander36.org/mastcollar/mastcollar.html">http://islander36.org/mastcollar/mastcollar.html</a> although the one on this site is designed with a hole for a a keel stepped mast. For a cabin stepped mast, it would not need the hole.The problem on the 27 is that such a plate would have to be mounted under the existing aluminum mast base - I don't think it would fiit inside the aluminum base and still have room for the mast. I am not sure if how this would be done or if it is advisable.
Greg Tokarz, Nepenthe, C&C 27 Mk1, Hull #73
Isn't the "E" measurement the length of the foot, not the boom? On my Mark I, the boom is over a foot longer than the foot of the sail. This is because the mainsheet leads from the end of the boom to the traveller which is mounted at the aft end of the cockpit.
Greg Tokarz, Nepenthe, C&C 27 Mk1, Hull #73
Try:
<a href="http://www.sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_ID=4623">http://www.sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_ID=4623</a>
Greg Tokarz, Nepenthe, C&C 27 Mk1, Hull #73
I went throught the same questions when I got my Mk 1 two years ago and had some temperature problems. I researched through this forum and Moyer Marine, learned as much as I could about my engine and cooling system, them figured out how to replace the impeller.
If you have raw water cooling you will have just one pump (and one impeller). If you have fresh water (i.e. recirculating / antifreeze) you will have a second pump.
I have a main (recirculating) pump in the OEM location - starboard side, aft of and below the distributer and alternator. If you have a second pump it would be forward of that. Mine runs off the alternator belt although it could be further forward running off the flywheeel in another configuration. Access to either pump is difficult on the 27. You have to pretty much be inside the starboard lazarette to be able to work on it. The good news is that it is not that hard to do.
There are three possible brands of pump - Oberdorfer, Jabsco or Sherwood. The most common are Oberdorfer. The main pump will be an Oberdorfer (which was OEM) and there are only two possible impeller part numbers with most pumps taking the most common one). You can order them from Moyer Marine. My second (raw water) pump is a Jabsco, but from my discussions with other A4 owners, the Oberdorfer is more common. If a Jabsco, you can get the impeller from any marine store. The model number is on the back plate of the pump.
To replace the impeller, you will have to remove the back plate from the pump (there are 4 screws on the Oberdorfer, 6 on the Jabsco), pull out the impeller and shaft, slide on the new impeller, reinsert the unit then replace the cover plate and gasket. There are some good descriptions of the process (with pictures) in the Moyer Marine forum and some ither sites.
Good luck.
Greg Tokarz, Nepenthe, C&C 27 Mk1, Hull #73
Rob. Do you have contact info for Kenyon? I've been thinking about either getting mine refurbishished / fixed or replaced (it's completely non functional). Thanks. Greg
Greg Tokarz, Nepenthe, C&C 27 Mk1, Hull #73
I've been thinking of replacing my prop as well (I have the OEM 2 blade). I found this on the web. Has anyone heard of this prop: http://mysite.verizon.net/resqp86c/performancepropellers/id21.html
Greg Tokarz, Nepenthe, Mk1 Hull #73
Ed.
I have a Mk I and I might be interested if you are selling some sails. Where are you located?
Greg Tokarz, Nepenthe, Mk1 Hull #73
I suspect the boat with the 25' 3" LOA is a C&C 25 Mk II. That boat is listed as having a LOA of 25' 2". Here is alink - <a href="http://sailquest.com/market/models/cc25n.htm">http://sailquest.com/market/models/cc25n.htm</a>
The C&C 27 Mk V is listed as 26' 6" LOA. <a href="http://sailquest.com/market/models/cc27n.htm">http://sailquest.com/market/models/cc27n.htm</a>
Greg Tokarz, Nepenthe, Mk1 Hull #73
I've found the best thing for taking off old paint on gel coat is oven cleaner. If you use a kitchen scrub pad, it allows you to scrub off the paint without scratcing the gel coat. You should be able to get into the cove with this as well.
Greg Tokarz, Nepenthe, Mk1 Hull #73
Roger. How is your cockpit sole repair going? I have a soft spot in my sole as well and will likely be doing a repair sometime this summer. Cheers. Greg
Greg Tokarz, Nepenthe, Mk1 Hull #73
I searched the Moyer Marine site when I bought my Mk 1 two years ago as I was concerned about the loud humming / gear noise in reverse. According to the posts and advice from Moyer Marine, this is perfectly normal and is the usual noise made by the reversing gear (in forward there is no gearing as it is direct drive).
Greg Tokarz, Nepenthe, Mk1 Hull #73
Here's a website on a complete cockpit sole rebuild. Lots of pictures of the project.
http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/cockpit/solecore/five.htm
Greg Tokarz, Nepenthe, Mk1 Hull #73
I was browsing in West marine this week and was surprised to see a selection of several laminated tillers of various shapes and sizes (one was labelled "Catalina 27"). Prices looked to be about $140. You can also order online.
Greg Tokarz, Nepenthe, Mk1 Hull #73
It is also a good idea to check the fuel filter / fuel-water separator and fuel pump bowl and empty any water that may have drained there from the fuel.
Greg Tokarz, Nepenthe, Mk1 Hull #73
Ah, that is clear now. Good luck with the exhaust system. If you haven't already, you should check out the discussion forum on the Moyer Marine website - a good source of Atomic 4 wisdom. Lots of info on all kinds of repair issues including exhausts.
Greg Tokarz, Nepenthe, Mk1 Hull #73
Horace.
I am not sure how you would get wet points from a broken exhaust pipe. However, with Atomic 4s, it is possible if you crank the engine a lot without starting water will be sucked into the exhaust through the raw cooling water intake and into the engine. You could then end up with wet spark plugs. You should check your oil and if it is milky, not clear you have had some water back up into the engine and have water in your oil. If you do have water in the oil, you should change the oil immediately. Since an A4 oil change leaves a bit of oil behind every time, you would have to do 2-3 oil changes to get rid of the water.
You should check out the website and discussion forum for Moyer Marine that has detailed information on exhaust systems for the A4. There would probably be information on the type of exhaust you have.
Greg Tokarz, Nepenthe, Mk1 Hull #73
One way of dealing with the separate outer shell and liner is to cut a hole in the liner and fix the hardware only to the outer shell. The hole can then be covered with a decorative piece screwed in place.
Greg Tokarz, Nepenthe, Mk1 Hull #73