This Forum is supported by C&C 27 owners like you whose membership in the C&C 27 Association makes possible this Forum and the accompanying site. Thank you, members, for your continuing commitment.
You are not logged in.
I've been wondering the same thing. The PO had stainless S hooks at the end of the #1 and #2 reef lines which hook directly to the grommets. I did a #2 reef during a gusty Wed night race a week ago and although boat performance and sail shape were spot-on, I thought the force on the grommet thanks to the angle of the reefing line was excessive. I wondered then if a cheek block would help too. The current set up requires one to grind the winch to set a good reef.
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
Hmmm, it seems I am on their list too. I have used their plexiglass treatment in the past and it has worked for years removing the crust from my windows making them see-thru again but getting their ads unsolicited is annoying.
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
Ahhh, memories.
With my 22 footer I learned about straps while trailering to a lake for a weeks vacation. I hit a large rift in the road that caused the entire boat and trailer to take flight ejecting all loose contents inside the cabin to the floor. After launching I did not check the cockpit lockers (always thoroughly check these spaces after launch for leaks) where the single deep cycle was stored. It's strap had failed and the battery fell over which vented acid into the water tight locker where many of the rush packed goodies were. I got lucky and our only casualties were a couple pair of shorts, some nylon ratchet straps and my hands from soaking up the spill. My spinnaker was high and dry and my friends $600 North Face sleeping bag was on top of that. A damn fine lesson. Fortunately we had a spare battery along and the spilled one still provided enough juice to run the cabin's fan on those +30c nights.
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
Well I discovered something new while re-bedding all my deck hardware on my MkV. At first I was surprised when I removed the nuts from the jib tracks etc. only to find locknuts and no washers. I passed this off as mid 80's C&C cost reductions. While drilling out the bolt holes I found resistance in the composite sandwich just before the drill bit punched through and when it did it spit out some metal filings. The next hole I drilled only to resistance then had a look inside. Voila! A strip of aluminum or thin stainless just inside the lower most skin of fiberglass below the balsa core. To save money C&C laid down a strip of metal in the composite. I guess it made assembly quicker too. Smart. I drilled all the holes only to the aluminum backing, pugged and epoxy filled as per usual but I installed new stainless washers on the bolts anyway. What the hell, they're cheap.
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
[Patience, please! You submitted the same post five times! Click once! If you're not sure if your post has gone through (it takes a few seconds), open a new browser window and have a look. Plus, if you look, then you can have the pleasure of deleting any extras that may have slipped in. Thank you. - Admin]
Hey David,
I bought the book you referenced in your post as it seems to be quite excellent at breaking down all aspects of diesel. It's a great read and well explained for the non mechanic. Thanks for that.
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
We're getting closer......
Anyone have an alignment procedure for those who are brave enough to uncouple the shaft flange from the transmission?
Thnaks
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
Hi Allan.
I'm not a furling genius and have only used one once but through study I have come to understand that where you gain convenience with the roller, you loose in performance. You will have to have your headsail cut to fit the new luff length which may compromise it's shape but more importantly you have less sail. You touched on aerodynamics and I'm not sure how much worse off you would be compared to hoisting on a tuff luff extrusion.
Have fun with you new boat, I can't wait to get mine wet!
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
Grind grind grind.
I have been grinding the hideous fiberglass repair in front of the keel sump on my mark 5 and have gone deep enough to reveal the resin plug within where the first keel bolt passes through. Its fractured in a lot of places and thanks to the poor repair has also let in a lot of water which froze and cracked more. In talking to a C&C buff around my parts he told me that the plug on some boats had poorly mixed resin at the factory causing cracking and in some rare cases, no resin plug at all. Has anyone here heard of such a thing or am I the first one to have had to dig into this thing. I have pictures on my rebuild site http://web.me.com/wildroverracing
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
Hello group.
I pulled the Sheafer traveller off my MkV this weekend, fixed the spider cracks below it and now its time to put her back together. I'm famillier with typical hardware bedding procedures but this one has me puzzled. The traveller is shaped in cross section like a captiol A which leaves a big space below it where no sealant will be when the screws pass through. needless to say butyl tape will not work here. It looks like I'll only be sealing the screw holes and not the hardware itself.
What is the best method to seal this piece of hardware?
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
Greetings. I'm not sure but mine felt like a little more than 150#. I took it off the boat by myself this spring and that is no easy effort. I removed the spreaders, tied everything tight to the mast drank a Redbull and got to it. I moved it so the masthead lay under the pushpit on top of a seatee cushion and then pushed it backwards and lift and pushed until the heaviest part was snug atop the cabin top handrails. I knew this might wreak the seal but I'm removing them anyway. I moved it back enough that I could reach it from the ground and from there just pulled it along. 3 feet of snow made for a soft landing with no damage except for the old crappy VHF aerial. Once the base was clear the pushpit supports I tied a line to the mast and lowered it the rest of the way. For my efforts I was sore, pinched, scratched and breathing heavily and the mast now sits atop two lawn chairs beside the boat with only a little scrape in the paint. I wouldn't do it again or recommend it but I'm still young and stupid.
As for the transportation I hauled mine 80 km from the harbor to my backyard with the mast atop the pulpit and pushpit. It all took the weight well and with the middle well supported on fenders there was no bouncing. With recommendation I also strapped the boat to the trailer with heavy duty 4" hi way straps. Just make sure you place 2x4s or something at the deck flange where the straps pass otherwise you may damage the flange.
Good luck with the move.
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
Thanks for the additional clarity on this topic.
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
I ordered my 4 gallons of grey and white interprotect as per your recommendations. I also took the time to watch the clips on application on the Interlux website and now I'm anxious to get going too. Today I got the mast off the boat (a freaking tough job as a solo act) pulled off my prop and began some removals. It was a warm day and I felt accomplished finally! Tomorrow I'm sending the prop to Martec and and weather permitting will continue removal of deck hardware. I gotta fix the leaks as the cabin resembles a colander inside with melt water dripping in everywhere!
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
Yeah valid points. I kinda forgot about the structure below the mast step!
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
I like that idea which made me think of an additional one. What if one were to bring a stainless pipe or rubber hose up through the tabernacle directly below the mast. On my MkV the mast sits in a step that perhaps you could bring the tube up into. As you lift the mast into position (crane only) you could hover it above the tube, feed all the wires down and into the cabin then drop the mast down onto the whole works. The tube would and wires would be protected by the mast and there would be no wire loops to trip on.
Any thoughts on this idea?
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
That sounds like the ideal way to spend evenings. Will this winter never end?!?!?!
Brent
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
I hope you have been keeping a photo diary of your progress. I enjoy reading folks websites documenting extensive renovations to their beloved C&C's. I wish I was as far ahead as you but living in the center of cold Canada with my boat frozen solid in the yard I'm going crazy with the anticipation of beginning the work.
My list includes repairing a poorly repaired hull in front of the keel
Pulling the toerails and rebedding
Rebedding the windows
Epoxy injecting bottom of main bulkhead.
Fix spider cracks on the deck
Painting the hull
Re bedding the companionway sliders
Replacing the septic system (stink factory)
Building new stormboards etc, etc, etc. Dang its a good thing I love doing this stuff!
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
While browsing the various suppliers websites for a new racing propeller I came to the conclusion that I simply cannot afford to dish out the astronomical amount of money they want for one. I saw that Martec offers a service where they will rebuild your old one at their California facility. Has anyone gone this route and what could I expect the costs to be?
I have a Martec 13x8x7/8 RH folding.
Add to that once the propeller is off I will replace the cutlass bearing. What is the standard size for a Mark V?
Thanks
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
I guess normal depends on if you're Atomic powered or Yanmar. my 1GM10 has monster vibration at idol but disappears by nudging the throttle forward. Its the nature of the 1 lunger I think since my friends MkV has the same characteristics.
Brent D
C&C 27 MkV #15
I echo the thoughts on the Kenyans. I grew up with one of those fire breathing monsters on our family"s DS 22. The saving grace was that the whole stove, mounting shelf and all was removable which meant I could safely cook my breakfast in the cockpit or on shore (weather permitting). These stoves are dangerous in anything other than a dead calm or a flat harbor since the pre-heating function can send an undesirable amount of alcohol cascading through the lower part of the stove and everywhere. Then add that its hard to see a lazy alcohol flame, the screaming of all on board when the cabins on fire etc...it's just a problem. And nobody likes a flaming seagull!
My new 27 has a propane unit on a gimbal which I am looking quite forward to using. I'll let you know how the maiden voyage tea serving goes.
This doesn't really add much to the conversation, I know but its fun to rant about something that never had a place in a small cabin in the first place.
Cheers
Brent D
C&C 27 MkV #15
Thanks all. Great advice. Now if only the stupid cold front would go away and winter come to a quick end I could get going on my obsession/project. I can't wait to sail her!
S/V Wild Rover
Brent D
C&C 27 MkV #15
Hi and thanks for the replys.
By topsides I meant the hull above the waterline...not the deck.
Brent D
C&C 27 MkV #15
Greetings and happy new year C&C community.
Along with my colossal re-build list this spring I plan to apply a barrier coat to Wild Rover's hull and a coat of VC 17. Anyone there know what quantity I need of each for a MkV hull?
As well next year I'm going to do the topsides too. How much topside paint such as Interlux's two part polyurethane does one require?
Brent D
C&C 27 MkV #15
[Sanding/stripping of bottoms was an active topic a few years back. Use "Search" and terms like "barrier", "strip" and "interprotect" to find others' experiences and suggestions. - Admin]
Greetings. I have told in short the tale of woe being the new owner of a project mk5 which took a hull fracturing crash into a Lake Winnipeg reef. I recently did a bit of digging into the repaired laminate and I'm unhappy with what i have found. Poor beveling, lack of anti-fouling stripping, lack of mechanical adhesion to the hull etc. I'm going to grind it all off and redo it this spring and utilize carbon cloth and west system to make it right.
Now the keel issue. Just in front of the keel sump, the grp part of the keel above the lead part, what is the composition of this thick thing. It is as wide as the top of the keel and appears to be a solid block of glass which bears some of the downward load of the mast. Mine was repaired at some point but took in some water which likely from freezing, cracked the floor of the head and weeps a little while the boat is out of the water.
Do I need to remove most of this big hunk of glasswork and if I do what can I expect it to be comprised of. Solid glass, a laminate of some kind... or should I just burn the boat down? Have I lost faith in rebuilders from Manitoba? Well not if I have a tupperware dish with a crack in it.
Hopefully this banter makes sense.
Brent D
S/V Wild Rover
C&C Mk5 #15
I have read that a wet balsa cored deck is as structurally sound as a dry deck. The problem occurs once the laminate starts to come apart which is usually the next step when the core is wet. Now structure is compromised. If air is added you get rot and the strength is gone. You can drill and fill to re-bed the rail but once the water is in the core its almost impossible to remove without taking the deck apart. It WILL delaminate eventually.
Those cracks may just be in the gelcoat but a good way to tell if its deeper is to use some of that Captain Tolly's creeping crack cure. If you squirt lots into the cracks and it never seems to fill up that indicates its gone through to the core.
Good luck
Brent D
C&C 27 MkV #15
Ok, here's an odd one. My recently purchased 84 MkV has had a rough life and I hope to give it a better chance. She started life as a hurricane boat rescued from florida and brought to Manitoba. Her previous owner slammed her into a reef on Lake Winnipeg and did some substantial damage to the hull in front of the keel. Professional repairs were made and the boat has been raced since the accident. As a result I paid very little for her and with a background of major repairs (transom replacement on a DS 22) I had no concerns about taking on a project boat. I discover new issues all the time, my most recent being this...
I removed the floorboards to check the integrity of the hull behind the keel and found the beams that run from port to starboard to be a little strange. The two behind the keel sump look normal with only a couple of drain holes in them but the two forward most over the keel sump appear to have had their sides removed immediately over the sump. The cut out is about 8 inches wide front and back but do not go into the top. The tops run continuously across the hull allowing the floor to be screwed to them. Is this a normal MkV beam or is it safe to guess that the sides were removed for access during the reef repair incident. Just another bit of glass work for the list I guess.
I love the MkV and raced on a sister-ship all summer. I can't wait to make this one race ready and begin its new life under it's new name. I'll be pouring more than a shot overboard for this vessel.
Brent D
C&C 27 MkV #15