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#1 General discussion » Dream Catcher is for Sale, Mark 3 » 2022-08-24 22:22:31

dmartis
Replies: 0

mini_IMG_4905.jpgAfter 13 years, the time has come to move to my next boat.  Dream Catcher is a Mark 3, Hull #636. 
On a trailer, with a winter cover. Currently on Lake Ontario. Rigged for spinnaker.  Great boat. 

Details are here:

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details.ht … 1630367000

Many more details and photos available on request.

#2 Re: General discussion » Original Barient Winches Available » 2021-08-05 21:00:03

Hi Steve: yes I’m willing to ship to the US. Email me at martisd79@gmail.com we can discuss details.

#3 General discussion » Original Barient Winches Available » 2021-05-31 09:46:47

dmartis
Replies: 2

My boat was upgraded to self-tailing winches before I bought it.  I have the original Barient winches, and was going to use them for spinnaker winches but decided not to. 

Would be a great set of second winches, or even for the coach roof if you don't have any there.  Anybody interested in buying a set of Barient winches from a freshwater only boat?

#4 Re: General discussion » Portlight/ window gaskets for CC 27 Mark 3 » 2021-05-31 09:41:07

Hi Brad

I replaced my window gaskets several years ago.  I don't think there is a good way of knowing the exact circumference, aside from maybe holding a string up around the existing window.  That said, replacement gasket is often sold as a "kit" of set footage, which should give you plenty to do the replacement. 

One thing I regret doing though, is compressing, or "crowding" the gasket when installing, to allow for shrinkage.  Each of the new gaskets has shrunk at least 1/4" per window. Also wishing I remembered to leave the gasket seam at the top of the window, and not the bottom!

#5 Re: General discussion » Exhaust Manifold » 2017-06-16 14:01:56

I rebuilt my exhaust manifold using 1.25" schedule 40 steel pipe that you can get at the plumbing store.  The injection elbow is special order, but everything else was easy to assemble, once I got the old one apart, which was the tough part!Dan Martis
Dream Catcher
Oakville, Ontario
Mark 3, Hull #636

#6 Re: General discussion » Onan waterlift muffler » 2015-09-29 06:17:43

Thanks for the reply Ken - I was too late to see it however.  Too many distractions in life.  Would still be interested in seeing photos of your arrangement.  I see your point about moving weight further aft, although I'm hoping to balance the 20 gallon fuel tank high on the starboard side of the hull.  Reluctant to give up prime storage space under the dinette table for batteries.  Please send me pictures to martis-underscore-dan at yahoo dot com.

Thanks!Dan Martis
Dream Catcher
Oakville, Ontario
Mark 3, Hull #636

#7 Re: General discussion » Onan waterlift muffler » 2015-09-10 06:34:12

Planning to relocate my muffler too! Need to make space for batteries somewhere other than beside the carburetor. 

Ken - do you have any photos of your completed installation you can share? Did you mount the new Vetus muffler "athwartship" overtop the stuffing box?

#8 Re: General discussion » Spreader Tip, not suggstions but about the tip. » 2014-05-01 14:04:03

Joe

Its possible the mast and spars were fabricated by Klacko Spars in Oakville, Ontario, 905-825-0015.  If they didn't make it, they'll know how to fix it for pretty much any C&C. 

Dan Martis
Dream Catcher
Oakville, Ontario
Mark 3, Hull #636

#9 Re: General discussion » Hoses - for Cockpit Drains & Head Plumbing » 2014-04-07 03:48:52

When I replaced the hoses on my cockpit drains, they also were incredibly stiff.  When doing the install, I found it easier to pull out the cockpit drain from the cockpit sole, make the hose connections, and then push the drain fitting back in (while re-bedding it) and tightening the backing nut on it.

This gives much more "wiggle room" when wrestling with the stiff hose.

Dan Martis
Dream Catcher
Oakville, Ontario
Mark 3, Hull #636

#10 Re: General discussion » Removing fuel tank » 2013-10-30 04:22:25

I pulled off the teak trims this spring, and found there were bedded in sealant so water doesn't leak inside if it gets underneath the locker lids.  Removal was trick and damaged the really dried out teak a lot as well as the fibreglass. 

I pulled my tank a few years ago and removed the aluminum elbow which looked to be a McGyver'd fitting.  Replaced it with a 1.5" copper sweat adapter, soldered to a copper elbow before reinstall.  Works great.

Dan Martis
Dream Catcher
Oakville, Ontario
Mark 3, Hull #636

#11 Re: General discussion » roller furling » 2013-10-21 13:55:23

Ed - I've got an older 170% hank-on light air genoa if you're interested. Fit a Mark 3, so it should fit your Mark 4 also.
Dan Martis
Dream Catcher
Oakville, Ontario
Mark 3, Hull #636

#12 General discussion » 170 Genoa and Main for Sale » 2013-09-30 11:59:55

dmartis
Replies: 0

For sale (or sail?) 170% genoa from a Mark 3, hank-on, lightweight dacron, LP dimension about 19 feet 4 inches. 

Also have an older main sail that came with the boat, fits a Mark 3, 2 reefing points, still useable.

I've never flown either sails as the boat came with another main.  I have pictures, and am in Burlington for any GTA sailors.

Dan Martis
Dream Catcher
Oakville, Ontario
Mark 3, Hull #636

#13 Re: General discussion » Need Genoa / Main for Mark III for cruising » 2013-09-30 11:56:41

I have an older main sail that was the spare with the Mark 3 I bought.  I also have a lightweight 170% genoa with hanks - you'd have to put a luff tape on it but could be a good sail for light air.

I'm in Burlington, Ontario - let me know if you'd be interested in coming by to have a look.

Dan Martis
Dream Catcher
Oakville, Ontario
Mark 3, Hull #636

#14 Re: General discussion » Batten size Mark III Main » 2013-07-08 06:57:43

I just replaced the middle two battens on my main, and just bought standard 1.25" wide plastic battens and cut them to suit by measuring.  The middle two were around 30" and I think the standard sizes were 30, 36 and 40" - I bought 40" just to be safe and cut them down and rounded the corners, which seems to work fine.

Dan Martis
Dream Catcher
Oakville, Ontario
Mark 3, Hull #636

#15 Re: General discussion » Main Upper Shrouds » 2013-03-15 23:38:38

Thanks Marcus - I told James he should ask you about this!

#16 General discussion » Main Upper Shrouds » 2013-03-15 03:57:24

dmartis
Replies: 4

I'm in the process of replacing the main upper shrouds this year on my Mark III.  The existing shrouds are 1/4" cable and have a small copper sleeve on them that fits over the end of the spreaders.  I'm not sure what the purpose of such a sleeve would be - shouldn't the spreaders just be in compression, and not pick up any up/down loads from the shrouds?

Does anyone else have this sort of thing? Or should I just get rid of it on the next set?

Dan Martis
Dream Catcher
Oakville, Ontario
Mark 3, Hull #636

#17 Re: General discussion » Plate under steering binnacle » 2013-02-27 03:47:56

I'll try to get a picture of the plate when I start painting it.  It is a fairly big job, but worthwhile if you're certain the core is in good condition.  You need to disconnect the throttle and shift cables, disconnect the steering cables from teh quadrant, and then have someone help you unbolt the pedestal bolts.  The stainless frames also need to be disconnected - I'm replacing the pedestal fee as the old plastic ones were cracked.  Thankfully Edson has a new and improved (and very expensive) replacement part for the pedestal feet. 

Not a small job, but worth while for keeping things dry and intact.

Dan Martis
Dream Catcher
Oakville, Ontario
Mark 3, Hull #636

#18 Re: General discussion » Plate under steering binnacle » 2013-02-27 00:12:00

Russ

Do you mean the steel backing plate below the binnacle that contains the cable pulleys for the wheel steer? I just had my cockpit sole recored, which involved removing the binnacle completely.  Taking the binnacle off was easy, since 3 of the 4 aluminum bolts Edson provides were corroded right through. There was a large steel backing plate where these bolts fasten to, which also contains the wheel steer pulleys.  Its in my garage awaiting a good dose of Tremclad. 

If its rusting that bad, probably worth it to pull the binnacle if you have one and rebed all the penetrations.  Mine was very poorly bedded, and of course the holes weren't potted.

Dan Martis
Dream Catcher
Oakville, Ontario
Mark 3, Hull #636

#19 Re: General discussion » Mast base blocks » 2013-02-22 04:36:21

A fellow 27 owner at our club did the following with the mast base on his boat, something I'm hoping to copy.  Not sure if I can attach photos, but he basically used aluminum angle bolted to either side of the Mark 1-4 mast base (the simple channel).  This required replacing the two long studs that hold the mast in place.  The angles had holes drilled in them to accept turning block shackles. I've got photos if anyone wants them. 

Looks like a very simple and elegant solution thanks to Marcus Opitz on Carriden!Dan Martis
Dream Catcher
Oakville, Ontario
Mark 3, Hull #636

#20 Re: General discussion » Backflow into toilet bowl » 2012-07-16 04:12:06

Turns out it was the joker valve, even though it was just over a year old.  Apparently you need to replace these things every year.  New $10 valve - presto, no backflow!

On to the next project.

Dan Martis
Dream Catcher
Oakville, Ontario
Mark 3, Hull #636

#21 Re: General discussion » buying C&C 27 » 2012-06-28 02:30:12

At that price range, its tough to go wrong.  From the photos, it looks to be in decent shape.  The engine looks to have some type of additional pump added to it (maybe freshwater cooling?) and by the looks of the rust on it, may have seen better days.  Check the decks carefully and look for spiderweb cracks or deck delamination by sound the deck for hollow areas or using a moisture meter.  Really, a survey may be worthwhile. 

It looks as though you have enough sails to get out in fair conditions, but you may want to look at their age/condition also.

Good luck! I've got a '76 also, it was a great year!

Dan Martis
Dream Catcher
Oakville, Ontario
Mark 3, Hull #636

#22 General discussion » Battery Location » 2012-06-19 06:01:17

dmartis
Replies: 3

The batteries for my Mark 3 are currently located right beside the engine.  What better way to get the heart pumping than making sparks immediately beside a carbuerator loaded with gas vapours?  I'm hoping to relocate them to where the muffler is currently located, in the port cockpit locker, immediately aft of the bulkhead.  Probably a lot safer, and help balance the fuel tank in the starboard locker.

Where are the batteries for most Mark 3's located??

My dilemma then becomes relocating the muffler. I have one of those little plastic Vetus mufflers that I could mount on the hull, sort beside the transmission, behind the exhaust manifold.  There looks to be some kind of stiffener or bulkhead at this spot supporting the cockpit floor. 

Has anyone relocated their muffler? Or amy I better off to make room for it beside the batteries?

Dan Martis
Dream Catcher
Oakville, Ontario
Mark 3, Hull #636

#23 Re: General discussion » Backflow into toilet bowl » 2012-06-04 03:44:31

Definitely a good idea - I gave it a try and still have water in the bowl all the time.  Must be the joker valve - hard to believe its worn out already!  Has anyone ever installed a vented loop at the top of the discharge hose? Or should the joker valve be able to hold back any residual liquids from draining back into the bowl?

Dan Martis
Dream Catcher
Oakville, Ontario
Mark 3, Hull #636

#24 General discussion » Backflow into toilet bowl » 2012-05-28 05:14:39

dmartis
Replies: 6

I have a mystery of water flowing back into the toilet bowl of my new Jabsco toilet. The original toilet did this, so I of course replaced it, as well as new hoses.  I replaced the polyethylene tank (that had numerous cracks) with a new stainless steel tank. 

Inspite of my efforts, some of the liquids destined for the tank end up back in the bowl, with associated unpleasant odours. I checked the joker valve, and it still looks brand new.  I pumped the bowl dry with the water intake closed, and still water somehow gets in. 

Does anyone else have this problem? I've read about vented loops at the top of the discharge hose, but I'm not sure if this is necessary yet.  Is this a venting issue?

Dan Martis
Dream Catcher
Oakville, Ontario
Mark 3, Hull #636

#25 Re: General discussion » Atomic 4 Operating Temp » 2012-05-28 05:09:30

Yikes! 200F sounds pretty hot, as boiling temp of water is 212F.  Have you tried removing the thermostat (located at the front top end of the cylinder head), running the engine without it, and maybe putting the thermostat in boiling water to see how it operates?  This help you determine if the gauge is faulty, or if indeed the thermostat is faulty.

My A4 runs about 160F most times, and I don't have the input valve installed.

Dan Martis
Dream Catcher
Oakville, Ontario
Mark 3, Hull #636

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