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The PO put Poli Glow on the hull in lieu of a nice wax job. Reading the ingredients the removal compound has is not good. What's your thoughts on this Zep Purple removing this garbage from my hull?
C&C 27 Mark III 1978
Hull#670
"Shifts and Giggles"
Quick question. I have been looking to upgrade all my electronics and have been looking at RAYMARINE. However, I have been also looking at the latest Signet offerings and am quite impressed. They will fit in the existing openings and as a building design engineer I have utilized Signet outside the marine industry with some pretty good results. So my question is, is it worth the additional 600.00 US to go with the Signet in lieu of the RAYMARINE?
As always, any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Martin
C&C 27 Mark III 1978
Hull#670
"Shifts and Giggles"
I want to install a small bow sprit and get a continuous line furler for a asymmetrical kite.
First off, who makes the mast?
I need a masthead halyard. Does the Mark 4 have a double sheave in front because as I recall the Mark 3 doesn't?
If so, can I buy one new?
Thanks,
Martin
C&C 27 Mark III 1978
Hull#670
"Shifts and Giggles"
I so agree with this. If the water has disolved solids bleach won't do one bit of good and most likely cause more harm. Maybe a disassemble of the effected parts might be in order as well as a good cleaning.
C&C 27 Mark III 1978
Hull#670
"Shifts and Giggles"
I see no performance difference in having slugs versus bolt rope.
C&C 27 Mark III 1978
Hull#670
"Shifts and Giggles"
I just shortened the toping lift and I was good to go with the Bimini
C&C 27 Mark III 1978
Hull#670
"Shifts and Giggles"
A Mark 3 is only 2'-2" short of 30ft. I also am 6'-0' and the little bead on the top of my hat just touches the cabin roof.
As far as bring it in and out alone, no sweat. She backs up like a dream with very little prop walk. Make sure your idle is set as low as possible without stalling. It's so light it will go like a bat out of hell in reverse if otherwise.
C&C 27 Mark III 1978
Hull#670
"Shifts and Giggles"
I found this on Craigslist:
Mark I or II, can't tell which. Really well founded boat
http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/boa/1750377403.html
C&C 27 Mark III 1978
Hull#670
"Shifts and Giggles"
E-mail doesn'y work or I'm to stupid. Could be either.
Mine is mjubenviklle at comcast.net
Thanks
C&C 27 Mark III 1978
Hull#670
"Shifts and Giggles"
A lot of people use the padeye to hook the halyard to when not in use.
Yes
Yes.
C&C 27 Mark III 1978
Hull#670
"Shifts and Giggles"
The block and padeye is for the down haul on the spinnaker pole. There should be a line running back to a cleat somwehere in the cockpit area. You're right, you don't really need a pole for a asym but it's nice to have when you want to run deep. Also, it sounds like it was set up for a sym and someone changed their plans.
C&C 27 Mark III 1978
Hull#670
"Shifts and Giggles"
That's exactly what I was thinking. I cn't be more of a trip hazzard then the existing one.
C&C 27 Mark III 1978
Hull#670
"Shifts and Giggles"
What if any is the structural requirement of the two aluminum pieces on either side of the mast? I can't see anything other than the two pins that go through them to hold the mast while stepping fore and aft. Why couldn't you drill about 4 3/8" holes in each of them where they pass by the front and rear end of the mast to attach blocks to go to deck organizers for halyard and control lines? Say two in front and two in back.
Thanks,
Martin
C&C 27 Mark III 1978
"Shifts and Giggles"
Hull#670
[Descriptive thread titles not only help people to answer your question (which may not be as stupid as your original title suggested you believe it to be), they help people find the answers they're looking for at a later date. - Admin]
I'm going to the boat this weekend so I'll lay a tape on it to see how much clearance i have. I was just going through the catalogues getting pricing an was wondering if it was feasible or not.
Thanks,
Martin
C&C 27 Mark III 1978
Hull#670
"Shifts and Giggles"
Since the boat is an hour and a half from here I have a question to ask as I'm working on my wish list. I want to upgrade my traveler to a Harken windward car. Is it possible with the space in the little inset in the deck where it currently resides to mount a Harken car and harken track? I looked at all the deck upgrade photos and it looks like Towser has this feature but I can't tell for sure.
Any help would be appreciated
Thanks,
Martin
C&C 27 Mark III 1978
Hull#670
"Shifts and Giggles"
This is absoluteltly true. If you keep the stck up out of the water, you need to release the shrouds. It will pull the chain plates tight, and in effect pull your boat together and cause delam. Bad bad bad
C&C 27 Mark III 1978
Hull#670
"Shifts and Giggles"
I have a asym chute that is brand new but has one of those damn socks and a tacker attached. I'm refitting the boat for next season, not this up comming one as I crew on a T10 already. The question is, what are the class rated rules for a symettrical(sp) chute for the boat. I need a light air and heavy air chute so I'm thinking a .50oz and a 3/4oz used to start with. But I can't find the dimensions online to get my PHRF rating. Help a brother out.
C&C 27 Mark III 1978
Hull#670
"Shifts and Giggles"
Now that was funny. I don't care who you are.
C&C 27 Mark III 1978
Hull#670
"Shifts and Giggles"
Yep, David is correct. I should know as I'm in the process of getting my PHRF rating and a number assigned right now. I was told that a tentative rating would be in the 192 area with 9 seconds a mile for a non folding prop. That cracked me up and made the C fleet crap their collective drawers. I can't wait for next season.
C&C 27 Mark III 1978
Hull#670
"Shifts and Giggles"
[On Lake Ontario (which is just south of Bloor & Yonge and thus must be considered adjacent to the centre of the universe), a Mk III/IV rates 189. No idea what the discount for a solid prop is. - Admin]
That's most likely your PHRF assigned number to race the boat in a non one design PHRF class. Go on line for the area that the PO lived and sailed in and there should be a web site with the number designations in it.
C&C 27 Mark III 1978
Hull#670
"Shifts and Giggles"
So I got my bottom cleaned and the diver told me that I need a new zinc on the shaft and the end of the prop (Which I've never seen before). These were new when I splashed the boat so I'm curious as to why they are eroding so rapidly. He thinks I may have some wayward current on the boat to make them disolve so quickly. I leave the shore power pluged in to keep the batteries charged up and with the dodgy electrical system at my Marina this may very well be the problem so that is going to end shortly. Can the DC power system erode the zincs this rapidly? Also, where can I get the prop zinc, since West Marine hasn't a clue of which I speak? Also, do I really need one on the prop itself or will a couple on the shaft work? I think the shaft is 3/4"
Martin
C&C 27 Mark III 1978
Hull#670
"Shifts and Giggles"
[More likely to be 7/8". - Admin]
Not a good plan
C&C 27 Mark III 1978
Hull#670
"Shifts and Giggles"
OK, I'll bite, what the hell is a roller furling main?
C&C 27 Mark III 1978
"Shifts and Giggles"
Are you talking about that brown, I'm assuming insulated hose running down the bulkhead? Yes, that is quite scary to say the least and is out of the boat as we speak. I plan on dumping the entire copper line all the way to the tank and mounting the filter on the shelf front in the port lazzeret for easy access.
The filter at the pump is history also.
You are correct, the see thru bowl is illegal for below deck engine compartment installation per US Coast Guard regulations.
C&C 27 Mark III 1978
"Shifts and Giggles"
Actually, I plan on using angled stainless steel in an L configuration bolted to the mast base. Instead of blocks on upright spring bases I want to use mast exit blocks at the base monted on an angle towards the deck organisers and then on to clutches for all.
C&C 27 Mark III 1978
"Shifts and Giggles"